Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Clear Coat Questions

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
MDM

06-10-2006 16:39:27




Report to Moderator

I have been doing my own painting for a number of years and am curious about clear coating, what advise can you guys give me about prep and using clear? I want to try it. I paint with John Deere ag green. Thanks




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
B-maniac

06-11-2006 19:51:14




Report to Moderator
 Re: Clear Coat Questions in reply to MDM, 06-10-2006 16:39:27  
I completely agree with Turbos10 as far as the benefits af a BC/CC System,BUT,you stated that you paint with JD ag green and I believe you probably have mastered it pretty well and probably are not looking to change to a complete different system.Having made that assumption,I would not bother with clear.Contrary to popular belief,clear in itself does not add depth and shine to a solid color (non-metallic) It is the sanding,buffing and polishing that gives that"show" shine and depth to any paint.I don't know,since I don't use the paints you do,if there is a compatable clear for it. I reallize I've said in the past to just go ahead and clear it with anything but acrylic laquer,and you could.You may get lucky and you may be sorry.Like I've always said,stick with a system.If you want "high tech" then go to that system.You just can't make a Corvette out of a Chevette!!!

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CNKS

06-11-2006 07:14:07




Report to Moderator
 Re: Clear Coat Questions in reply to MDM, 06-10-2006 16:39:27  
I'm not disagreeing at all with Turbos10. However, others on this forum have clear coated alkyd enamel, which I assume your JD paint is. However, I have not, so I may be speaking out of turn. The only advantage I see is that the clear will have UV inhibitors in it, meaning fade resistance. The JD paint has none. As far as getting more shine, that is probably marginal. But, you are better off using either base/clear, as Turbos10 suggests or single stage acrylic urethane if you don't want to learn the base/clear system.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Turbos10

06-11-2006 06:30:38




Report to Moderator
 Re: Clear Coat Questions in reply to MDM, 06-10-2006 16:39:27  
Clear coat is awesome, and so easy compared to single stage.

You definately want to use a two stage system and not just clear over some no name enamel or something. I am hoping this is your plan?

The great thing about two stage is that the base coat goes on dry and drys in about 10 minutes so it is very easy to get the color right with no runs. If you get a run, just let it dry ~20 min. and sand it out. Then dust it again to make sure the color is even.

When you do the clear, it is kindof tricky at first, but not hard once you get used to it. First, you need plenty of light. If not, you will not be able to see the clear and you will run it or have tons of dry spots and orange peel.

I use three coats, first heavy and wet and the next two much lighter. It is very important to get good coverage and on the first coat. For this, I shoot the coat and then look it over real good with a light or walk around and look down the panels(usually painting cars). If you see a dry spot, go ahead and shoot a little more in that area so it smooths out. If you find a run, jut be careful not to run it worse in the next coats. On the last two coats I move a little faster and put on less material than the first. You dont want to orange peel it, but it is easy to run if you put it on as heavy as the first.

If you end up with runs, just wet sand them out. If they are big or come to a drip, you can use a razor blade to save some time. You will also want to wet sand with 1500 and buff in two stages for best results. First is 3M polishing compound and last is Mequires NO.7. Clear coat is very forgiving in that way if you have some dry spots or run. You will want to do the sanding and buffing the next day or two so plan for that. If you wait a week it will be like sanding glass. In the first few days it is still soft and sands very easily. Believe me, I have made this mistake and it is no fun.

Lastly, pull it out of the shop, get a beer, and sit to enjoy the shine:).

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy