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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

here is some pictures from my body work..

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Tim Shultz

06-19-2006 14:57:00




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here are some pictures.. harder than I thought it would be, but not too bad.. tack welded the tim in place, then JB weld to hold it good.. seems to work pretty good..




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rob nickel

06-28-2006 22:46:26




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 Re: here is some pictures from my body work.. in reply to Tim Shultz, 06-19-2006 14:57:00  
You tell em Tim! If the guy would have taken the time to read the other post's before jumping in and dumping all over you, he mighta seen you were just a poor young guy trying your best with what you had, at the time? I'm sure his advice is sound! And he's only being completely honest with you by giving it. Still, not all repair job's are meant to be proffessional in quality, and I think sometime's this should be taken into consideration before some of these more experianced guy's speak up?

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Rod (NH)

06-19-2006 19:29:57




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 Re: here is some pictures from my body work.. in reply to Tim Shultz, 06-19-2006 14:57:00  
Hi Tim,

Been there done that. One suggestion. If there is any bondo open to the backside I'd try to get some of the rattle can spray undercoating over it from the back. Even if you have to drill a hole somewhere from inside and blindly spray it around (liberally) as much as possible. What you want to do is try and prevent moisture from contacting any bondo from the back. Bondo absorbs moisture readily and in that case rust will reappear at the bondo/steel interface around the edges. In 3 or 4 months you'll see your new paint bubbling up there. If you can keep the backside of it dry, the whole repair will last longer.

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B-maniac

06-19-2006 18:03:29




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 Re: here is some pictures from my body work.. in reply to Tim Shultz, 06-19-2006 14:57:00  
Looks like you got your work cut out for you.Glad it's your project.ha Guess we all have to start somewhere. I can vaguely remember doing the same thing myself back in 1969 just to get some experience.Then I learned a very valuable lesson..." A good bodyman could fix that...but a SMART bodyman would replace it"!! Seriously,you can buy new fenders for that truck for $75 ea. and new doors for $115 and preformed cab corners for less than $30 ,but experience is worth something.Good luck on the ole Ford.

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Tim Shultz

06-20-2006 11:35:44




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 Re: here is some pictures from my body work.. in reply to B-maniac, 06-19-2006 18:03:29  
I KNOW it ain't worth fixing.. I KNOW it would be faster to replace the whole thing.. but I don't have the money to spend on new panels right now, and I figger me spending all day working on my truck is better than doing drugs like the other kids are doing now days.. so it just gives me somthing to do.. Tim Shultz



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Rod (NH)

06-19-2006 19:50:58




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 Re: here is some pictures from my body work.. in reply to B-maniac, 06-19-2006 18:03:29  
B---,

I can remember being pretty crude on rust through fixes. My state used to have safety inspections every six months and if there were any rust throughs, you just wouldn't get a sticker. If you didn't have a sticker, you'd be ticketed (and fined) by the police. This was also back in the late '50s into the '60s. With little money and trying to keep a car on the road, you really didn't much care how it looked or how long it lasted. Getting the inspection sticker was the only real short term necessity. I've stuffed steel wool or wire mesh as a backing into rust outs, covered it with bondo and rattle-canned over it. That was enough to pass inspection and that was all that mattered - until the next time. I always get a smile when I go past high schools nowadays. There doesn't seem to be a rust bucket in the bunch. All fairly new vehicles and all look to be in good shape. Not sure where the money comes from - mommy and daddy I guess. That wasn't the way when I was a teen. Bondo, duct tape, bailing wire and just about anything you could scrounge that worked for the task was used. I can recall using the tin cans that pizza mix used to come in wrapped around exhaust pipe rustouts and held in place with old muffler clamps or wire. It quieted things down fine for a while - and that was good enough to avoid ticketing.

Rod

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Tim Shultz

06-19-2006 14:58:29




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 Re: here is some pictures from my body work.. in reply to Tim Shultz, 06-19-2006 14:57:00  
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Tim Shultz

06-19-2006 14:59:12




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 Re: here is some pictures from my body work.. in reply to Tim Shultz, 06-19-2006 14:58:29  
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.



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Tim Shultz

06-19-2006 14:59:51




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 Re: here is some pictures from my body work.. in reply to Tim Shultz, 06-19-2006 14:59:12  
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.



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Tim Shultz

06-19-2006 15:00:51




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 Re: here is some pictures from my body work.. in reply to Tim Shultz, 06-19-2006 14:59:51  
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and here is my 'purdy air cleaner.. lol
Tim Shultz



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Tim Shultz

06-19-2006 14:57:26




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 Re: here is some pictures from my body work.. in reply to Tim Shultz, 06-19-2006 14:57:00  
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.



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Brad_bb

06-22-2006 06:52:27




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 Re: here is some pictures from my body work.. in reply to Tim Shultz, 06-19-2006 14:57:26  
I"m sorry to have to be the honest one here, but your repairs will not last. Metal preparation is key to prevent rust from coming back. That means removal of all traces of rust, cutting out bad metal and replacing, metal prepping the metal with a Mild phosphoric acid wash and rinse, compresses air drying, and sealing the metal with a high quality sealer like PPG DPLF Epoxy sealer primer. It looks like you didn"t even sand the paint back in some of those repiars. By not doing that, if filler is up against unsanded paint, it won"t stick permanently. Bondo is not a favorite filler material of bodymen. I recommend Evercoat products like Z-grip filler. I will also comment on the welding. It looks rough. Are you using a stick welder? Do you have any experience. I would always recomment a Mig welding with the sheilding gas (not with flux core). Learn the skill of getting good penetration without blowing through. All welds must be metal prepped with a product like PPG DX579, a mild phosphoric acid solution. If you don"t, you will have rust bubbles form after you paint. It stops the oxidation process that welding starts. You can learn to do professional quality results if you are determined. Too many people are too lazy though and choose to do half A#$ work. The cost of that is that it doesn"t last long, looks worse later, and they give up as it would take twice as much work at that point. I encourage people to learn the right way. It takes patience though and a personality that demands attention to detail. Wanting to shortcut to the end is too temping for some people unfortuneatly. I am happy to help anyone with knowledge that is serious about learning.

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Tim Shultz

06-22-2006 10:12:29




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 Re: here is some pictures from my body work.. in reply to Brad_bb, 06-22-2006 06:52:27  
this is not a show truck, not by a long shot.. just messing around.. I know it won't last forever, and thats O.K with me.. just has to last till I can buy the new panels and stuff.. cab has been welded on lots before. and yes I use a stick welder, and I know a mig welder is better... and I KNOW I should treat the metal and all.. just give me the money and I will do it.. cuz I ain't got any extra laying around! thanks anyhow..
Tim Shultz

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