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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

question re:epoxy primer and sandable primer

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DAN9-Midwest

06-26-2006 16:41:52




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I am switching to using better materials after reading CKNS and others and using acrylic paint for the first time. It made a good job great.
I want to learn about "epoxy primer and sandable lacquer primer surfacer" mentioned in the prior post but do not understand. I presume "epoxy primer" is put down first, sanded later and them sprayed with "sandable lacquer primer". Then sanded again and then sprayed with paint.
Is this what I ask for at the paint store? In a general sense, do I have to wait before sanding or spraying between coats? Is there a time limit when this must be done? What if I don't correctly sand some small spot between the primer or paint--will the paing stick? What grit papers?
Approximately how much do these primers cost? Can I spray primers outside?
Thank you--any advice helpful.

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CNKS

06-26-2006 18:52:41




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 Re: question re:epoxy primer and sandable primer in reply to DAN9-Midwest, 06-26-2006 16:41:52  
Rod and B type faster than me. Your original post is on page 3. After their posts I looked up what you said, I had forgotten you do a lot of painting, as you paint farm equipment for resale and do not have supplied air -- At least for tractors you will be happier with hardener, then you can use urethane surfacers and not worry about shrinkage. Might be the best $4-$500 you ever spent if you get supplied air.

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CNKS

06-26-2006 18:39:49




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 Re: question re:epoxy primer and sandable primer in reply to DAN9-Midwest, 06-26-2006 16:41:52  
Some dealers are good, some bad, some have their own ideas, which are not always correct. If you use PPG products (DuPont and Sherwin Williams, etc make equivalent products, I use PPG because the dealer is conveniently located), ask for MP170, MP175 catalyst, MP181 primer surfacer, and MAE Acrylic enamel. These are all in the PPG Omni line. As to your other questions. The MP 170 epoxy I mentioned for all practical purposes is not sandable. You CAN sand it, but it does not sand easily and it is very easy to go to bare metal. It does not do any filling, it is applied for two reasons, it adheres very well to sanded (180 grit or coarser according to the spec sheet) bare metal, and it gives excellent adhesion to the next product, be that primer surfacer or topcoat. It does have a 3 day window at 70 degrees in which something must be applied over it. Or you need to scuff it and give it another coat -- if you don't the overlying paint will not bond adequately to it. If your sanded old finish is in good shape, and there is no rust underneath (there almost always is) you can use it as a sealer over the old finish, then use 181 or topcoat. Since it is non sandable, there must be a chemical bond between it an the paint over it, thus the window. MP 181 is known as a primer surfacer. It can be used to fill up to 80 grit sanding scratches -- try to have less than that -- and very small depressions. Since I have supplied air, I have no need for 181, but use the urethane surfacer MP 182. Neither 181 or 182 should be used over bare metal, MP 170 will adhere much better. Both 181 and 182 have good build and sand very easily. As mentioned previously on this forum, lacquer surfacers such as MP 181 can bridge sanding scratches, and later sink into them, sometimes after the topcoat is applied. That's why you should minimize your sanding scratches. Both 181 and 182 will fill 80 grit scratches, but the 181 "may" not last on such scratches, I can't say because of no experience. So keep your scratches to a minimum. The 181 or 182 is usually sanded with 400 grit before topcoating. Although the spec sheet says it can be sanded after a couple of hours, it is probably best to let it dry overnight. You can put on 2 or 3 coats, letting it flash for 10-15 minutes between coats then let it set. You will be wet sanding, unless you have a good air sander and the correct paper. When you wet sand squeege or wipe the stuff off, and you can see if you missed anything. Block sand it and see if you are satisfied with it. You may find some dents or depressions you missed or did not know were there. The shallow ones can be filled with a single stage putty, the more obvious ones need body filler, or at the least a 2-part glazing or finishing putty. If you sand these places to bare metal, you should spot in more 170, then apply 181 and sand smooth again with 400. My dealer is a little high on cost, according to what others have said. I pay about $62/ gallon for 170, 12.50 for catalyst (2 quarts/gallon. MP 182 is about $50-$55 a gallon, MP 181 should be similar. Since you only use the 181 on the sheet metal, you won't need a gallon, I don't know if it comes in smaller quantities. You can paint outside, that is not an option for me because of our never-ceasing wind. The link is for nearly all PPG products, it is alphabetical, drop down to the M's and you will find your products.

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B-maniac

06-26-2006 17:59:46




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 Re: question re:epoxy primer and sandable primer in reply to DAN9-Midwest, 06-26-2006 16:41:52  
You will be glad you switched! Yes the epoxy works best to apply first. Check the recoat "window" or time limit on the brand epoxy you are using.This will be the time thet you have to put down another product over the epoxy and still achieve the superior chemical bond you want.After that time window you can still sand or better yet scotchbrite the epoxy for a mechanical bond at any time.After a little thought,DON'T sand with sandpaper,you will go through the epoxy and then it's worthless!I really wouldn't compromise an otherwise good system by using acrylic laquer surfacer over it.It's junk.Before we can go any further we need to know your personal priorities as far as whether you are going to use catylized products or not.There are some nice user freindly systems out there if you can go that route. (breathing safety). If you don't then it will be a lot more challenging to get you into the quallity you seem to be asking for.Let us know ,then we can go farther.

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Rod (NH)

06-26-2006 17:53:20




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 Re: question re:epoxy primer and sandable primer in reply to DAN9-Midwest, 06-26-2006 16:41:52  
Hi Dan,

Yes, epoxy primer is usually put down first and is generally not sanded. It is also referred to as a non-sanding primer. It can be sanded but sands with some difficulty and usually does not need it. It is a great bare metal primer but can also be applied over just about any cured paint product. A product referred to as a primer-surfacer, a primer-filler or just a surfacer, is an easily sanded product, intended to be sanded and needed to be sanded. They are designed for filling minor surface irregularities such as sandpaper scratches, say no coarser than about 80 grit. I prefer to use just the term surfacer for such a product because most do not make the best bare metal primer, I prefer to avoid dual-purpose products and most also need some kind of specific metal prep anyway, such as chemical treatment or an etch primer under them for the best performance. That's why I prefer the epoxy as a bare metal primer and a surfacer over it, where needed. There is a time limit on when to apply another product on top of epoxy. That time depends on the exact product but generally is between 24 hours and 7 days. A popular epoxy mentioned in this forum is PPG's OMNI MP170. It has a 3 day window for applying another product. If the window is exceeded, then the epoxy should be scuff-sanded and another coat applied before proceeding.

Rick, in his post below has typical costs for the OMNI epoxy. A lacquer surfacer would be less than that I would guess. Most will tell you to avoid the old technology lacquer surfacers. However, you don't have much choice if you are trying to avoid isocyanates at a reasonable cost.

Sure, you can spray primers outside. I spray everything outside. All you need is cooperation from the weather.

I generally use 220 grit initially when sanding surfacer and finish with 400 grit before applying the color.

third party image Rod

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