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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Painting new galvanized metal

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David Maddux

07-07-2006 03:09:36

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How is the proper procedure to prepare new galvanized metal to be painted? I was planning on using epoxy primer, is that not a good idea?

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David Maddux

07-08-2006 19:22:33

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Re: Painting new galvanized metal in reply to David Maddux, 07-07-2006 03:09:36

I wasn't sure about new metal with epoxy, I have been using it on sandblasted tractor parts with excellent results, The part in question is a new reproduction starter Gas tank for a UC Allis.

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Rod (NH)

07-07-2006 08:25:43

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Re: Painting new galvanized metal in reply to David Maddux, 07-07-2006 03:09:36

David,

I've used PPG's DX579 and DX520 metal treatments very successfully on galvanized metal. These are relatively inexpensive products based on phosphoric acid. The 579 is a cleaner and the 520 is a conditioner. Both should be used. They are each applied by scrubbing with a Scotch-Brite hand pad (wear rubber gloves) and then the surface is flushed with water. The equivalent products in DuPont are 5717S and 5718S. This provides an excellent pre-treatment for your epoxy. Yes, epoxy primer is the best choice in my opinion, assuming it's a two-part automotive epoxy.

Rod

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CNKS

07-07-2006 05:48:16

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Re: Painting new galvanized metal in reply to David Maddux, 07-07-2006 03:09:36

Rod(NH) and B-maniac will have suggestions. I just painted a couple of small galvanized (I think) exhaust pipes, that the previous owner had curved for an air inlet. I sanded with 180, and used epoxy and acrylic urethane topcoat. That was a week ago, if it doesn't last, I'll do it again the right way.

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Rod (NH)

07-07-2006 08:31:32

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Re: Painting new galvanized metal in reply to CNKS, 07-07-2006 05:48:16

CN,

I'm curious if you used a surfacer or not, and if you didn't, how well the epoxy (2 coats?) and AU (3 coats?) filled 180 scratches. I like to avoid the extra steps of a surfacer if possible, but I've only done that using Scotch-Brite. I know that is finer than recommended for a scratch under epoxy but I've never had an adhesion problem doing it that way on smooth, unblasted sheet steel, either pre-treated as noted above or not. If the 180 scratch is filled well with the 2+3 coat scenario, I may begin using it just as an extra assurance where I am not planning on a surfacer for other reasons.

Rod

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CNKS

07-07-2006 14:54:51

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Re: Painting new galvanized metal in reply to Rod (NH), 07-07-2006 08:31:32

On a piece such as I described I don't use surfacer, I usually skip it on battery boxes also. To me, any scratches aren't noticeable, although they are probably there. I am most interested in the perfect finish on the sheet metal. Lights, air cleaners, battery boxes, any "smooth" pieces except sheet metal I don't use surfacer, not saying I never will. Yes, 2 coats 170, 2 or 3 coats of MTK. First tractor I painted I didn't pay attention to the sanding instructions and used 220, that was in 2002, no detrimental effects. I thing PPG is sometimes overly conservative about such things. I bet 320 would work, but I'm afraid to try it. Also, I vaguely remembered that you were supposed to treat galvanized. I'm going to leave those parts alone. It will be some time before I get this thing together, if it loses adhesion, it's easy to do again. Treatment will take longer than the painting.

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