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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Fuel tank dent

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Hossman

07-29-2006 16:23:00




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O.K fellas I have a question on a dent in the tank of a recently purchased A.C."B". The dent is in the top of the tank lower half and it is on the right side.I havent stripped it down yet as I wont start the restoration till next year but was aware of the dent when i bought the tractor on account of the "repair" job on this older restoration is shwin its age. Anyhows it appears that someone slapped some bondo in it and it has cracked loose on the top half of the dent. This is the sort of dent that was made buy someone steppin on the tank or somthin, not he typical round ding you see in alot of tanks but more of the kind you could almost "pop" out if you could get at it from the other side. Any ideas or suggestions would be great thanks-alot, Hoss

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Jim in OH

08-01-2006 05:53:15




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 Re: Fuel tank dent in reply to Hossman, 07-29-2006 16:23:00  
YOu might also try hot glue on the dent pulling nail "studs". That is what most of the dent pulling kits use... If it still pulls off, (the head of a nail is not much area), I'd use something with larger area (1/4"? bolts).. Jim



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Hossman

07-30-2006 15:48:18




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 Re: Fuel tank dent in reply to Hossman, 07-29-2006 16:23:00  
Rod thanks so much for your idea also I gotta say it sound more my style, as for the dangers of heat around these ol tanks see my previous reply to ol B-maniac for a hearty chuckle, definatly been there done that kinda thing and I CAN speak from past experance on that one it can be very dangerous. But now your idea I can and will give a try,I like the idea of repairin it myself as thats the whole purpose of this hobby for me. But I also understand that sometimes after a pricey hospital bill that in the long run sometimes your better off to pay the pro.Its just until now ive been blessed to not have to. I will give the nail method a try and see what happins, Thanks again so much all you fellers are a great help, Hoss

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Hossman

07-30-2006 15:34:14




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 Re: Fuel tank dent in reply to Hossman, 07-29-2006 16:23:00  
Bmaniac, Thanks for the reply sounds like a good idea, Im just an amature paint and body man but have a blast doin it and my restorations have turned out real good. I have some experience with fillers an am prettygood at some body work an painting these ol gals but had bad explosion when soldering an old pickup tank some years back, I had filled with water and let it set for a day or so and then heated up my solderin iron so as not to have any open flame around tank I had just about finished up when I got the bright idea to do one more spot layed the tank over and some of the water spilled out the gooseneck well I put the old solderin iron to the tank and one heck of an explosion later I was in the E.R. at the local hospital, the doc told me one pint of gas fumes is equal to half of stick of dynomite, my ears didnt stop ringing for two days! Kinda funny now but to an 20yr old kid at the time pretty scary. Anyhows Ive givin fuel tanks of all sorts a pretty wide berth every since. Anyhows thanks again, Hoss

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Rod (NH)

07-30-2006 15:32:08




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 Re: Fuel tank dent in reply to Hossman, 07-29-2006 16:23:00  
Hi Hoss,

I've safely done hot work on gas tanks a number of times over the years but I am hesitant to recommend such things to others without getting into some lengthy specifics. Few mixtures are more flammable than gasoline vapors at very low vapor/air concentrations. Even acetylene has a higher lower explosive limit (LEL). This is not meant to scare anyone but I think due respect needs to be given to the risks involved. Hot work on a gasoline tank is potentially a very hazardous operation. That said, I would try something else first. A lot depends on the nature of the dent and how easily it might be brought back to close to where it should be. Here's a suggestion to try: Take a standard nail, say a 10 or 12 penny one and glue the head to the bottom of the dent using epoxy cement. Grip the nail with a pair of visegrips and pull or tap the visegrips with a hammer to see if you can pull the dent out. A levering action on the visegrips could also prove beneficial if you can get a firm fulcrum point. You don't need to get it perfect but you ought to try and get it to within about 1/8 inch. Depending on the size of the dent you may have to do this in more than one area. You then should be able to break the epoxy bond by twisting the nail, putting the epoxy in shear. Then sand the area and apply polyester filler as needed.

Since you are working on the gas tank prior to painting, I think you should consider also lining the interior with a two-part epoxy. I did that to my AC-B tank a few years ago. The AC-B gas tank provides fuel to the fuel bowl at the lowest point in the tank. While the screen in the bowl assembly can keep rust particles from getting downstream, it cannot prevent water droplets from doing so. Condensation in a B gas tank can get into the carburetor and cause stalling of the engine. You can minimize that, if not eliminate it, by adding a short riser to the fuel bowl assembly so the fuel bowl is supplied a little above the actual bottom of the tank. You can see my arrangement here. I also installed a separate tank drain, for convenience, but that involved hot work on the tank in my case. You don't need to do that if you are willing to unscrew the bowl assembly once a year or so to drain out any accumulation of moisture and crud at the tank bottom.

third party image Rod

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B-maniac

07-30-2006 07:54:29




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 Re: Fuel tank dent in reply to Hossman, 07-29-2006 16:23:00  
I am assuming you have allready determined that you can't get at it through the filler hole to pop it out. Drain the gas and blow compressed air in the tank until completely dry. Either borrow one,buy one (around $200-$300 or so)or take it to a body shop that has a stud welder.While blowing compressed air in tank,weld studs to tank and use the slide hammer that comes with it to yank out the dent.Grind off the studs and with a very small amount of filler and primer,will look like new. There are a lot of crude methods of doing this some thing,like welding on washers to pull on etc,and you will likely hear obout these also.Use whatever you want. The stud system works the best. The tank will not explode.First of all it is dry and second of all you are blowing enough air into it that it would not support combustion.You will always be able to smell gas in an old gas tank even if it is dry.There has to be a fuel-air ratio sufficient to promote combustion in order for there to be any danger.If the tank is completely dry and you blow air in while you are pulling the trigger on the stud gun,there won't be a problem.You can fill it full of water if you want,but I am not sure the stud gun will weld correctly with that much of a heat sink on the other side of the metal.Guess you can try it if it makes you feel safer.Good luck.

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