Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

rough primer

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Steve-Maine

08-02-2006 03:08:46




Report to Moderator

I have been using Rustoleum Commerical coatings primer. When I spray primer I get alot of dust on top of paint which wipes off but also get alot of areas that look like I added sand to primer, very rough. This is on a brush chipper so it is impossible to sand all of it. Have I mixed paint wrong or wrong pressure with HVLP gun? Thanks




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
B-maniac

08-02-2006 19:40:53




Report to Moderator
 Re: rough primer in reply to Steve-Maine, 08-02-2006 03:08:46  
In our factory we paint 4-5 new brush chippers a day ( Morbark Inc.) We spray with water based alkyd enamel (primer is the same) and we have this problem in the winter when it is dry.The primer is drying too quick. The logistics of painting a brush chipper are such that you will need the SLOWEST thinner/reducer you can get.There are so many nooks and crannies to coat that you get big time overspray where you have already been.Yours IS actually drying in the air before it hits the machine. It takes some practice to spray a paint or primer that is so "wet" that it stays "open" long enough to do a complete machine and have it all melt in but that's what you need on brush chippers. The only other way is to section them off.Very time consuming. There are very few automotive type products that allow for this slow dry time.You need to get with a Rep. for whatever products you intend to use and give him your requirements.He may not be able to get that slow. Makes a diff. what size chipper you are doing too.If it is a small (40hp or less) one you should be able to use any product as long as you get the slowest reducer available. If it is a larger one like most that we build (100-250 hp) 24" throat,you wont have much luck with automotive or "production" based products.Our competitor down the road switched to Imron 5000 and their machines are still so orange peely they hardly shine.Holds up good but they dont look so hot. How many of these do you plan on doing and what is your topcoat ? How old and rusty are they? Give me some particulars and maybe I can recommend something.I work with Niles Paint out of Niles Mi. every week trying to come up with a "better mouse trap" for our machines.Some are 50' long and weigh 90'000# so we have a big challenge painting them.We do 1 large one and 4-5 brush chippers each day. Right now we are experimenting with a water based urethane clear.Hope we can get it to work soon. I have seen some pretty good car painters cry after attempting their first chipper.Mess! They are a different breed altogether. Good Luck.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Steve-Maine

08-03-2006 03:50:33




Report to Moderator
 Re: rough primer in reply to B-maniac, 08-02-2006 19:40:53  
To B-maniac.
Thanks for info. In fact I do about 5-6 used Morbark Chipper a year. Mostly 12" Disc. I have been using Rust-Oleum Industrial enamels but will be switching to their 3400 System Low Voc Enamels because of laws in Maine. I think you have answered by questions, I have been using too high pressure in my DeVilbiss HVLP. Also holding gun too far away from machine.
Steve



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CNKS

08-02-2006 05:17:07




Report to Moderator
 Re: rough primer in reply to Steve-Maine, 08-02-2006 03:08:46  
The surface has to be clean. Any chips in the old paint will be amplified by the primer, even more so by the topcoat. Mix the primer according to the instructions. If it requires thinner or reducer follow the instructions, if no instructions buy another brand of primer. Set the pressure on the gun according to the instructions also. HVLP works best with a full pattern at the maximum recommended pressure. The max fluid flow is usually set by turning the adjustment all the way out, pulling the trigger and turning in until you feel pressure on the trigger plus maybe 1/2 turn. The pattern is set by turning the adjustment in about 1/2 turn from wide open. Depending on the gun the max pressure can be anywhere from 30 to 50 psi. Set the pressure with a gauge on the gun, not the one on your compressor or the on the regulator on the wall. You could have orange peel or dry spray. Keep the gun about 6 inches from the surface, move it just fast enough so that the paint doesn't run or sag. Overlap 50% on the previous pass. Apply other coats when each coat becomes tacky. But, it sounds to me like your surface is dirty and that you are stirring up dust with your gun. You could also have water. Put your water trap as far from the compressor as you can get it.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Steve-Maine

08-02-2006 06:08:56




Report to Moderator
 Re: rough primer in reply to CNKS, 08-02-2006 05:17:07  
Thanks for reply. I sandblasted the machine and blew all sand and dust off just before priming. It almost seems that the primer is drying somewhat before reaching the machine.
Steve



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Rod (NH)

08-02-2006 09:14:10




Report to Moderator
 Re: rough primer in reply to Steve-Maine, 08-02-2006 06:08:56  
Hi Steve,

From your description it sounds like dry spray. If it is, it's only going to be aggravated by the hot temperatures we are currently having. Check the type and quantity of recommended thinner on the primer label. Make sure you are using the correct air pressure. With HVLP, the max recommended pressure at the gun should be indicated on the gun handle or in the instructions that came with the gun. Set it this way and if the problem still persists, reduce it some. Get a little closer and move a little slower. I am not familiar with that particular paint but doubt there are several temperature-dependent thinners available for it. If you are limited to just one choice, you may have to wait until ambient temperatures cool down a bit.

third party image Rod

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy