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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Painting Proceedure cont. - Rod, CNKS, B-maniac,

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TJNAA

08-28-2006 18:14:41




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Sorry guys but my post was getting rather lenghty so I started another one. I spent last evening D/L-ing the spec sheets for the MAE. I see there is the option of using MH202 high gloss hardener. My past experience has taught me that high gloss means greater resistivity to the elements, gas, etc. Am I right in expecting the same here? I suppose the other question is, will high gloss look right on my NAA? I know beauty is in the eye of the beholder but I sorta want it to look right for the tractor as well. I think I've got the steps right now. For the cast items:
1. Scuff the picklex, degrease,prime with MP170, scuff with scotchbrite, degrease, and over coat with MAE.

For the sheet metal:
1.Scuff the picklex, and bondo/sand as required
2.Use the MP170/bondo/MP170 until I am satsified, degrease (instead of bondo how about JB Weld?)
3.Overcoat with MP 182 and scuff previously to
4.Applying MAE
5.Now can I have a beer and admire my work?

Thanks for all your help guys, this forum is the best.
Regards,
TJ

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Rod (NH)

08-28-2006 20:10:56




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 Re: Painting Proceedure cont. - Rod, CNKS, B-mania in reply to TJNAA, 08-28-2006 18:14:41  
Ditto what the others said. High gloss usually comes from proper surface preparation and paint application, not from some "special" additive. I haven't used the MH 202 either so probably shouldn't comment. As to whether the gloss will look right for your tractor - gee, I don't know. It all depends on what you want to achieve. It should be nice and glossy on the sheet metal if you prepare the surface and apply the paint properly, regardless of the hardener choice - or even if there is no hardener used. The MTK that CNKS mentions has three different hardeners. Which one to use is dependent on temperature, like the reducers are. With that paint, there is no such thing as a designated "high gloss" hardener. I just don't know if the "high gloss" 202 is marketing hype or it is just a slower version of the 101. I tend to favor the slow side of things so my thought would be to use it rather than the 101 - if for no other reason than it might have less tendency for orange peel. If you really are unsure about how the gloss will appear, do a sprayout on some sheet metal, prepared the same way and see what gives. If this is your first time painting, you should do that anyway, just to get the feel of things before committing to your tractor hood. You may find the need for more practice before the real thing.

Rod

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B-maniac

08-28-2006 19:15:30




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 Re: Painting Proceedure cont. - Rod, CNKS, B-mania in reply to TJNAA, 08-28-2006 18:14:41  
You only need to scotchbrite the 170 if the 3 day period has lapsed before you put anything over it.Up to 3 days no scuff needed or wanted. I would use the "high gloss" hardner if I were you. It will still fade somewhat with age and sun. To me it's the contrast between the "cast" surfaces and the glossy sheet-metal that gives these tractors their beauty. You can use reg. hardner on everything but the sheet metal to create more contrast and give it a real nice look. I don't like the ones where they smooth out EVERYTHING and make it look like a molded plastic model either. I think you are ready for that beer now!

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CNKS

08-28-2006 18:30:14




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 Re: Painting Proceedure cont. - Rod, CNKS, B-mania in reply to TJNAA, 08-28-2006 18:14:41  
Answer is below original post.



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