Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

New to spray painting

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Bob Underwood

08-31-2006 07:10:10




Report to Moderator

Would appreciate any help. I took all parts of my Cub down to bare metal. Cleaned and used triple etch and primed looked good beginners luck. When applying the top coat the finish is shiny but appars bumpy, I don't know how to explain the look has highs and lows. This is a Harbor Freight hvlp gun and Valspar enamel thinned 2 ounces of napha per quart. I have no experience spray painting. Appreciate any help Bob

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Bob Underwood

09-01-2006 06:28:35




Report to Moderator
 Re: New to spray painting in reply to Bob Underwood, 08-31-2006 07:10:10  
Thanks so much for the response. I find one of my many problems, not close enough to the work. I very much appreciate each suggestion.

Thanks again,
Bob



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CNKS

08-31-2006 18:48:09




Report to Moderator
 Re: New to spray painting in reply to Bob Underwood, 08-31-2006 07:10:10  
Set your HVLP gun as follows, then don't mess with it. Turn the fluid control all the way out, pull the trigger (NO paint in the gun), until you feel resistance, then no more than 1/2 turn in. Set the pattern 1/2 turn in from wide open. Set the pressure at the gun at the max pressure printed on the gun. Hold the gun about 6 inches from the surface. This is the way GOOD HVLP guns work. Some people say HF guns are as good as the high priced ones, I do not believe that. I have switched to SATA ,nearly $400!!, it leaves virtually no organge peel. However, I think you just need practice. What is your tip size? 1.3-1.4 mm is preferred, no more than 1.5 mm. Could also be your paint. You should use quality paint the has precise mixing instructions that you never need to deviate from. Also if you sanded the sheet metal, you have no need for etch primer. Etch primer is for body shops on new or stripped metal that they don't want to take the time to sand. Epoxy primer followed by a surfacer is the way to go. Epoxy can also use a 1.3-1.5 tip. Surfacer works better with about a 1.8.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
rustyj14

08-31-2006 16:00:00




Report to Moderator
 Re: New to spray painting in reply to Bob Underwood, 08-31-2006 07:10:10  
First: Did you sand the primer to a smooth surface, with no bare spots? If so, go to No. 2.
No.2: If you didn't thin (reduce) the paint enough, or put enough on, that causes "orange peel", or a bumpy finish! Also, a beginner usually doesn't get a smooth finish, because he is scared of getting "runs" in the finish, so he doesn't apply enough paint, or doesn't reduce (thin) the color coat enough! And, of course, the beginner always blames it on a $45.00 paint gun! Which is the wrong thing to blame! I refinished many autos with a $45 paint gun from the flea market tool man's store, or the auto paint store bargain shelf! The guns were exact copies of Binks or Devilbiss guns! (Not LVP) I used them for many years, and never had any complaints from owners about lousy results! Its not the gun! Its the person using it! Any problems come from inexperience, not bad spray guns! Unless they weren't thoroughly cleaned the last time they were used! The salesman from the auto paint company asked me one time how i reduced the paint, how did i measure the reducer? I told him, i added reducer,until the paint looked good, running off the stir stick! That statement made him look hard at me, shake his head, and leave! But, in all fairness, it took me 10 years to get to that point, since i wasn't born knowing everything about painting cars, etc.! Rustyj 8<)

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bob Underwood

08-31-2006 09:19:26




Report to Moderator
 Re: New to spray painting in reply to Bob Underwood, 08-31-2006 07:10:10  
Brad-bb In looking at the PPG website it appears to be orange peel . This would have to come from the gun as the surface was smooth when I started.Any suggestions on adjustments would be appreciated.
Thanks
Bob



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
B-maniac

08-31-2006 19:25:18




Report to Moderator
 Re: New to spray painting in reply to Bob Underwood, 08-31-2006 09:19:26  
I,too,believe that it is the user and not the gun. Since you are new to painting,you probably got too fast drying reducer to prevent runs.This causes orange peel. If you have a slow dry reducer, that paint will flow and lay right down flat.Like the one poster said,though,if your body work is not perfect,you may want a little orange peel.If it flows out like glass,any minute flaws or waves or deflections WILL be magnified,whereas you may not see them with a little orange peel. Yes,brand new Chevy pickups in the '70s and '80s used a lot of orange peel to hide their shoddy, wavey body side sheet-metal workmanship.Good Luck.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Brad_bb

08-31-2006 08:42:04




Report to Moderator
 Re: New to spray painting in reply to Bob Underwood, 08-31-2006 07:10:10  
Do the "bumps" look like the peel of an orange? This is commonly called orange peel. All sprayed paint has it to some degree. There are techniques to minimize it. Car manufacturers actually use orange peel to some extent to hide defects or imperfect bodywork. Thicker paint pan increase it. Too low a spray pressure can cause it to be worse. Spraying on an already bumpy or orange peely surface can cause this too. If there are actual bumps like debris in the paint, perhaps you have some dry overspray that landed on a semi-wet surface? I always have to be careful of that in the paint booth. I have to paint the parts upstream first to prevent overspray from landing on already painted parts. If it"s something besides these two, give us some more description.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy