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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Rattle can paint job

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VTXscooter

09-06-2006 06:40:14




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Anyone have a particular brand of rattle can paint they like to use? I want something near the original dark grey from my 42.

Thanks, Jor




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souNdguy

09-16-2006 22:21:12




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 Re: Rattle can paint job in reply to VTXscooter, 09-06-2006 06:40:14  
Try a ferguson grey.

I'm not a big rattle can painter.. but have used TSC BPS rattle cans... I imaging you will need quite a few of them. And is this for a 42 2N ??

Do prime it first.. even if it is rattle can.. you will get better coverage on those $pendy spraybombs.

Soundguy



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VTXscooter

09-26-2006 18:35:14




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 Re: Rattle can paint job in reply to souNdguy, 09-16-2006 22:21:12  
third party image

Thanks for the informaion. It is actually a 9N according to the serial number. I want to use the darker grey.

I have been reading allot of posts about using the good stuff and a sprayer. Since I have a sprayer I might as well use it.

I am curious how you protect yourself from hardner fumes? I will be doing it outside so It might not be as bad but I dont want to get sick.

Thanks , Joe

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souNdguy

09-27-2006 05:43:58




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 Re: Rattle can paint job in reply to VTXscooter, 09-26-2006 18:35:14  
ideally we would have a self contained breathing system to be 100% safe from the ahrdner fumes.

Most hobbiests don't.

You can take steps to minimize exposure.

Painting outside in 'full air' with a very slight breeze goes along way in this effort, as local concentrations never build up if the air is moving.

Next, wear a good mask respirator. You won't find one that states it's good for ISO-products.. however, it's still a good idea to get one with the best organic cartridge available. There will be other paint fumes and chemicals in there you don't want to be exposed to either.

Lastly.. your chemical choices will make a great deal of difference.

It seems that some hardners don't contain as much 'iso' chemicals as others.. I.E. the cheaper ones.. like valspar. However.. looking over their MSDS, thier documentation is bit 'fuzzy' on how much of 'what' is really in there. And their directions seem to indicate that if the iso concentration is below 'x' threshold, you are ok, unless you have a sensitivity to it. In technical terms.. you would have to do air sampling to really know the concentration levels.. etc.

Me? I paint in open air, and a breeze.. i wear a good mask, and I stay upwind of the gun and waste spray.. I keep the gun clean and adjusted so it isn't blanketing the area with waste spray.. I've also developed a habbit of holding my breath when making 'critical' tin sprays.. more for uniformity.. however, I think this also came from way back when I would paint with rattle cans... In any case.. I usually step back from the work to breathe.

I've also taken to painting alot of parts while they hang.. so again.. I'm in an open air environment that is not saturated with spray fumes.. In some cases I'm mixing up only a few ounces to spray a small part.. etc.

I reccomend you play it as safe as possible, and do what makes you feel comfortable.

Apparently there are some hobby grade air systems with hoods as well as some plans to cobble a hobby air system using a hood and a shop vac.. etc.. stuff like that..

If you have scuba gear.. I'd guess you are set... or just try to have 0-minimal exposure. Some people apparently are just not very sensitive to ISO materials.. where as others are super sensitive.. etc. And you really don't want to find out either way.

Soundguy

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