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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

KCSUPERMMAN.....

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Author 
Rod (NH)

09-17-2006 16:32:11




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Ken,

I've started using the POR on my snowblower. I've found the best sequence for me is to complete prep (a lengthy process in itself, even if only wire brushing) on day1, apply the two coats of POR (one in the AM and one in the PM) on day2 and also apply a coat of epoxy primer on day2 as soon as the second coat of POR is ready. Then topcoat with color on day3 (or4, or5 if using PPG OMNI MP170). This can be done w/o any intermediate scuffing and the epoxy provides a binder between the POR and the topcoat, which in my case will be acrylic urethane. The long time to tack for the POR makes this sequence necessary since waiting the second day to topcoat directly to the POR should not be done w/o scuffing per the POR folks. I've deviated from the POR instructions in using the epoxy (my risk) instead of their expensive "etch primer" but I have heard others have done so successfully. Ask me in a few years how it pans out. I'm pretty confident however.

Here's the blower housing after prep with Metal-Ready (click on the thumbnail):

third party image

And here's the same housing after the first coat of POR:

third party image

POR is real nasty stuff. Plenty of isocyanates, even if it is a single part product (moisture cured rather than chemically cured). Supplied air is necessary, especially for spraying. POR's safety instructions are confusing, contradictory and, IMO, simply inadequate.

I'm not sure if you read the email I got from POR concerning topcoating. It seems to have been deleted in the thread below, along with some others in the same thread. I suspect that may be due to the recent problems Kim was having with their server. If you didn't see it and still want it, let me know and I'll repost it.

Rod

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