B---, Brad_bb, Jason, Others

I have plenty of OMNI MTK60080. I don't wish to purchase more DCC. The shade differences between the two are noticeable. They are, of course, both single stage acrylic urethanes. I am considering applying one full coat of MTK60080 (over epoxy) and then applying one full coat of DCC60080 right after the flash time of the MTK. I realize there is some risk since one is a premium and the other is an economy product with a little different chemistry even though they are of the same basic type. This is strictly a maintenance project but I would like the final shade of the chute to match the main housing reasonably well. I only have myself to please but you know how that is. The chute is also a separate part that could be repainted fairly easily if a disaster should happen.

I think the risk in doing this is fairly low but would like some other opinions - no guarantees, of course. I could always paint it black to match the gear box and augers but I really don't want to - unless I have to.

Thanks,
Rod

I think much of that other thread got lost forever due to the server problems Kim has been having recently with this site. Yes I used POR15 under it. See my post below, titled "KCSUPERMMAN..." for a discussion of my use of the POR and epoxy as a binder coat with the topcoat color. Also pics of pre-POR prep and post-POR are in that thread. The post-color pic is in my thread below titled "AC PO Nuts". Here's the post-epoxy pic (a single coat):

Day 2 with the POR application was the tight part, schedule wise. I put the housing in the shop after prep the day before so I could start fairly early the next morning with the POR, not having to deal with drying the dew off the housing. The temp was about 75F and the POR took about 3 hrs to get to that "tacky" point where the second coat could be applied. Another 3 hrs before applying the epoxy. The color went on the next day just before lunch so it was cured enough by late in the day to not be affected by the heavy dew that evening. I could have put it back inside but didn't need to bother. I'm sensitive to painting color late in the day and having dew turn it all cloudy by next morning - I've been burned twice that way in the past.

Today, I put POR on the first stage augers and the discharge chute. The temp was in the high 60'sF and not as humid as before. It needed 4 hrs between coats. I wound up applying the epoxy coat between 5 and 6 pm. So I needed about 9 hrs elapsed time from beginning the first coat of POR to applying the epoxy binder.

This is the first time I have done this so I am not sure how it's all going to turn out. But I'm cautiously optimistic. I am mostly curious as to how well the POR is going to hold up on the impellers and on the interior of the discharge chute where it's going to take the worst beating. It seems to be brutally tough stuff - as tough as it gets, I'm told. I expect the color and epoxy will wear off fairly quickly in the discharge chute. Time will tell with the POR. I really doubt it will hold up very long to such abuse in those areas, but then again the blower is not my primary means of handling snow. I haven't used it much at all in recent years so it's not likely to get heavily used.

I take it your POR is now fully cured and you want to topcoat it. I think you said you had some of POR's "etch primer". That should do the trick and be in full accordance with their written instructions, although it was not clear to me if scuffing was not also needed in that situation. I have found their instructions to be a little less than I would like and even conflicting in a couple of instances.

Rod

I used the DCC (first time, btw) just because I have been meaning to try some for a while and just got around to do it. I had bought it previously to also check the color match with the MTK for a potential upgrade for that early AC persian orange. That idea was discarded when a color swatch showed the shade discrepancy. I knew it would not match that tractor before I used it on the blower.

If it wasn't for the pot life restriction, I would have had enough left from the main housing application to do the chute. Unfortunately, the chute wasn't prepped and ready so my wife's garden cart became partially orange with the leftovers!

Anyway, I'm going to apply the color to the discharge chute tomorrow, providing the weather holds nice. I'll post back how DCC goes over wet MTK. I am sure I have enough of the DCC to do that in one coat, especially if I do the exterior first as Brad suggested.

My reason for posting the picture in the thread below was to demonstrate to others that the same color code may not result in the same shade when going between lines, even using the same basic chemistry and the same manufacturer. I think this is especially true for the old tractor colors where "best match possible" or "close" is probably all one can hope for anyway.

Rod