1st Project

I am starting a couple of projects (my sons old car, and my Ford 4000) which will require a bit more finesse in the fianl result. I have paintguns (both regular and HVLP) because they came with the compressors when purchased.

I would like to do the painting myself but, would like for the end result to be presentable (not perfect). I would be interested in your advice on paint type, techniques for applying, do's and don'ts, etc... I have a large shop and will create a booth in one end using plastic tarps to reduce overspray and dust. As a youth I worked for a body shop doing basic surface prep (sanding, straightening, bondo) but, was not allowed near the paint booth. I am sure that paints and materials have changed in the last 30 years.

Thanks in Advance
Wayne

Since this is your first paint job, I want to encourage you do do it yourself. It's fun and satisfying. It can be frustrating as you learn also so you should plan on that. But don't be discouraged - you'll get the hang of it. You'll also probably get a confusing array of recommendations - so be prepared. People generally recommend what they normally use themselves and have had good luck with. There are many good combinations. Too many as you may find out.

The first thing I would say is you need to be aware of the real personal safety issues with modern paints using hardeners. Respiratory safety is very important and many either are not aware of the potential problems or are lucky enough to not be affected adversely, at least in the short term. Most people fail to read and follow all the fine print that spells out the manufacturer's safety recommendations. A fresh air respirator ($400 and up) is needed when using hardener additives. But that's a personal decision that you will have to make for yourself. If you want to research this matter further, do a search on isocyanates or isos in this forum and also a google search of the net on the same terms. Lots of information available.

The second thing I would say is that you need to practice on something that is not your car. Do some practice painting on an old car hood or fender (in the vertical poistion) or something until you get a good feel for how things are panning out. Technique is something to be better learned than explained. Start with the instructions that came with your paint gun(s). I can also link you to a set of gun adjustment and spray techniques that should be applicable to most guns if you wish.

Assuming you are going to use an automotive paint from one of the major manufacturer's (DuPont, PPG, Martin Senour, etc) make sure you get the technical data sheet(s) for the exact product(s) you plan on using - before you buy anything. They set out mix and usage instructions that exceed what you will find on any can label. Following those instructions is the best way to minimize unforeseen problems. Those sheets are available for download from the manufacturer's website(s).

As far as a paint goes, I will assume you will want to proceed with a single stage acrylic enamel used without hardener. IMO, the "best" in that category are PPG's Delstar and DuPont's Centari. They have both been around for over 30 years and are excellent paints. Delstar is on its' way to the dustbin of history I am afraid. It hasn't been available in my area in the last 6 years or more but I understand it is still available in the midwest. DuPont's Centari is still available around here and I assume most everywhere. It can be used without a hardener additive, if that's your choice, but is rather expensive for an acrylic enamel (in the area of $150/gal depending on color). A less expensive alternative in the same category is DuPont's NASON FastDry acrylic enamel but I have never used it. If you want to consider using hardener additives, there are more (and better) choices available to you but I'll leave it at the above for now. My choice "if I were doing it", given no fresh air respirator, would be DuPont's Centari in what's called a "1K mix" (no hardener). I use hardened enamels and urethanes myself since I have a fresh air respirator - but I don't recommend them to others w/o that equipment because of the safety issue.

Rod

I don't know if you are directing your question only to B--- or not but I'll provide my thoughts.

As far as a fresh air respirator goes, there is basically no filtration of the air in the paint area with such a system. Clean, fresh air is pumped directly into the face mask or hood. There are no filtration cartriges to buy and no great worry about getting a perfect face seal as with a typical filtration mask. the fresh air is obtained from a safe area and is supplied to the mask or hood via a hose from a small remote turbine or compressor. There are some other arrangements but those two are the most practical for the DIY. One such system is called "Hobby-Air" and is popular because it's cost is bearable ($400) for the non-professional. Another variation is one I have seen being sold regularly on Ebay called "Breathe-Cool". That looks to be a perfectly acceptable unit that is a little less expensive than the Hobby-Air. I use a full facepiece supplied by a small (1hp) remote compressor with about 50 ft of 3/8" common airline. The important thing with these systems is to locate the compressor or turbine in an area where there is no possibility that overspray or fumes from the painting operation could enter the intake and be pumped to the mask or hood. I do recommend a full facepiece rather than the half mask since you eyes need protection from the isocyanates as well as your lungs. If you need to wear glasses while spraying, however, the hood would be a much better choice. I know this is a rather large investment but I think it is well worth it in order to safely use the better paint choices available now, such as hardened enamels, urethanes and base/clears. I've been using my same setup for about 25 years with no routine additional costs. I find it a pleasure to use - no smells at all, even if you are totally enveloped in overspray. If your future plans only include painting one or two cars, what I would do is purchase such a system and after your painting is completed, advertise it for sale either on Ebay or on some of the internet auto painting forums. I wager it would sell rapidly for at least half the cost you paid for it.

Should you decide to proceed in this fashion, my recommendation on paint would change. You then should be thinking of at least an enamel that uses a hardener or a urethane. With either of those choices you would wind up with a better performing paint that has great gasoline resistance, better color and gloss rention and is much easier to repair after any unforseen application problems (which do occur for everyone, unfortunately). And if you are thinking about a metallic type of paint, you should be thinking about a basecoat/clearcoat two stage system that is used on just about all autos in todays world. If you are not repairing an individual fender or something on an existing vehicle, but doing a complete overall paint, you will find that a urethane in one of the economy lines such as OMNI from PPG or NASON from DuPont will actually cost less than the Centari I mentioned before.

Even if you choose to use a un-hardened paint and avoid the high cost of a fresh air respirator, you still need respiratory protection. A standard dust mask is no good for painting. All paint has bad stuff in it to breathe so with un-hardened paint, a chemical cartridge type of respirator such as those sold by 3M and others will be needed. You'll probably pay $50 or so for that and you'll need to regularly replace the cartidges since they filter the air and become used up in the process - so a continual maintenance cost is associated with that method if you plan on painting well into the future. And you really won't be able to wear glasses or have a beard that would interfere with a face seal.

You might also get a lot of information on auto painting by reading some of the on-line forums more dedicated to that than this one for tractors. Autobodystore, Autobody 101, and Paintucation are good ones.

I don't think you would ever regret spending the money up front for supplied air respiratory protection and using modern paint additives, even if you only used it once and sold it afterwards.

Rod