Any Zero Rust users come by this forum? If so, I'd be interested in your thoughts on the following plan. I am seriously considering using it for the first time on another project of mine - a Kut-Kwick self powered and self propelled bush hog. It also works good as a large lawn mower. There is essentially no paint left on it. There is no scale though and every thing is very sound - just rusty - old rusty. This is a limited maintenance project and I will not be sandblasting or anything like that. It will also be done completely inside this winter with only intermittent, marginal heating from a salamander type heater while I am actually working on it. The POR15 is not an option because it is too restrictive in preparation, time constraints and temperatures for this project. Besides, being inside in a shop attached to living quarters, I want a non-iso solution. I am thinking of a prep with Picklex20 after minimal wire brushing and prior to the Zero Rust. I know this is not in accordance with the specific Zero Rust prep instructions but it is a sequence recommended by Len Stuart at ABS. I have faith in his recommendations on such matters, despite the fact he sells both products. I am considering the Picklex because it doesn't require a water wash as does the prep recommended by Zero Rust. I am not set up for nor prepared to pressure wash parts inside - or even non-pressure wash inside for that matter, so Picklex would be an ideal prep for me in this instance. The Zero Rust would be applied by brush with no additional products over it. I am not planning on any spray application on this project except the spray "squirt" bottle for Picklex. One concern I have at this point is temperature. My use of the salamander is basically to take the worst chill off while I am working there and not to try to get the shop up to any "normal" temperature. I could get the temp up to 40 or 50F, especially just prior to application of the Zero Rust, but I would shut off any heat when I left the area and the temperature would drop fairly rapidly to freezing or below, although I would schedule any painting when outside ambients were not expected to go below 20F, even overnight. Slower than normal drying is not an issue as long as it does, in fact, dry.I am planning this as a winter project because 1) I have more time available for it then and 2) I use the equipment regularly during the non-winter months and really don't want to take it out of service for the time it would take for me to do it then. I will be disassembling it completely for this work. POR and Zero Rust seem to be the cream of the crop of the so called "rust paints" out there, judging from personal feedback on various internet forums. All comments/suggestions are welcome, including words of discouragement if anyone thinks this is a poor way to proceed or that another product would provide a better solution, given the limitations mentioned. Rod
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