ZR - 1st Impression

I know there is generally not a lot of instructions needed for alkyd type paints but jeeze, even hardware store alkyds have some basic usage info right on the label. I don't think that's expecting too much of any paint and I am quite disappointed that I don't see it here.

When I opened a can, I noticed immediately that it would require a lot of stirring. There was a large amount of heavy solids settled out in the bottom of the can. Apparently the cans are not shaken before they are sold. Either that or this stuff settles awfully fast. After I thought I had it stirred well, I applied it by brush to a small part that I had applied Picklex20 to the day before. The coverage seemed to be very spotty, like it wasn't stirred well enough, although the appearance in the can was good. After about 4 hours I applied a second coat (different color as recommended). I made sure this one was stirred better and that made an improvement in how it covered. It goes on fairly heavily. I found it difficult to apply light coats as suggested in the on-line instructions. The heavier coats also have a tendency to run and sag on vertical surfaces after a while. Perhaps thinning would help but there's that conflict between the obvious printing on the can and the on-line instructions. I haven't done much brush application of an alkyd type paint in a long time and perhaps I have been spoiled by my recent excellent brush experience with POR15 on three tire rims. As you can tell, I am not particularly pleased with the ZR product. I decided to try it out because it seemed to fit my unique requirements for a specific project. Also because it has received very good reviews from many posters at automotive painting forums and is highly recommended by the ABS. However, I am now inclined to not use it at all.

As a consequence, I am reconsidering my approach. I am thinking after the Picklex20, applying OMNI MP170 epoxy by brush and then topcoating that with DuPont Centari in the 1K non-iso mix, also by brush. I already have most of the ingedients for that scenario. I know these products are not intended to be brush-applied but I do know they all work well together, most of the parts are relatively small and I am willing to accept some brush strokes as unavoidable in such a scheme. I'm also going to try and get the key sheetmetal parts wirebrushed and Picklexed in the next week or so. I would then hope for a decent day sometime next month in the 50'sF where I can actually spray the epoxy and a hardened Centari outside. There are about six parts where this could be a very good option - if I'm ready and the weather cooperates. Anyone have any thoughts on the longevity of epoxy over a wire-brushed, rusty surface that has had Picklex20 applied? I know from past experience the epoxy will keep a clean steel surface rust free for years outside w/o a topcoat. It's pretty impervious to moisture. I wonder how it might stack up against the available "rust paints", using a similar surface prep. I've never seen a discussion on that.

Rod

I typically reduce about 2 ZR to 1 fast enamel reducer, use the cheap stuff. The ratio is not critical, just get to something that applies well. Bruce will have some info on mils needed for good rust protection, usually amounts to 2 or 3 coats sprayed light to medium at the mix I said.

One real thing different - this stuff is very high solids, as you noted by the stirring needed. It needs 2 to 3 weeks of cure time before it can be put to hard use or overcoated with a catalyzed top coat.

Hope this helps, don't put it down until you have used it as it is supposed to be applied and noted the results. One of the first things I did with it was the floor pan I replaced in my wife's CJ 2A. I have not topcoated yet and the ZR is resisting all abrasions, etc. after 3 years. Good luck.

Thanks for your input. I guess my point is that a customer should be given basic usage information, such as any thinning (reducing) instructions (guidance?), right on the can label - or at least on a separate instruction sheet supplied with the product at time of purchase. I do not believe one should have to go searching around forums on the net for a rep to find out such simple things. If one has to do that, the product is unsatisfactory as far as I am concerned. I am aware of ABS. They sell it there and that's where I purchased it.The proprietor thinks highly of it and promotes it regularly. Indeed he responded favorably to a post of mine on that forum concerning it. Which is not surprising since he sells it.

However, the fact remains that what's on the can label directly contradicts info available at the official ZR website. If the reason for that is to somehow maintain a low VOC classification, I think that is misrepresenting the product. It's deceptive at best. The product either needs to be reduced or it doesn't. The can specifically says it doesn't.

I thought I was using it as "it is supposed to be applied" by not thinning it as cautioned on the label. Even more so because I was brushing it. And I was displeased with the immediate result. I generally follow the manufacturer's written instructions unless I have a personal, specific reason to deviate. If I do deviate, it's understood to be at my own risk.

Anyway, I'm glad it has worked well for you and apparently many others also. It may very well be the "cheaper, easier, better, safer" alternative to POR15 that is claimed by some; but I think that ZR and I are going to have a very short relationship because of that "Do Not Thin" on the label.

Rod

Did you have the same good luck brushing it on before you thinned it, especially if the surface was quite smooth? I'll try thinning it before I give up on it completely. Maybe my thoughts about it will moderate. However, I just hate it when a product is very specific about not doing something on the label and that something winds up to be needed for a decent use of the product. It would seem that something is way out of sync at Zero Rust. If they are that careless with the label, what else are they careless about? Anyway, everyone that I have seen around the net comment on ZR says it's great stuff (no bad reviews to my knowledge) so maybe it's just me having a bad hair day.

Rod

It doesn't pass the 20 ft rule. Or even the 50 ft rule. I'm usually willing to accept quite a bit less than perfect simply because it's better than before. But jeez, why even bother in that case? Talk about quick and dirty with a rattle can. It doesn't get any quicker than that. I suspect it actually looked better before the painting.

Rod

This morning I did look into the Ospho you mentioned. A check of the MSDS at the Ospho website suggests a much higher percentage of phosphoric acid than Picklex (75% vs. less than 20%) so maybe it is a better "converter", I don't know. In any event, no local stores seem to carry it, or even heard of it, so I won't be trying it out on this project.

It was 45F and sunny today so I decided to try a "scoot and shoot" scheme using the bare engine. I had applied Picklex to it yesterday and, of course, I had to use a scuff pad to remove the loose white, powdery deposits that remained. I then moved it outside and shot epoxy MP170 (2 coats) plus 2 coats of catalyzed Centari. Then back inside after about an hour dry time. That worked out quite well and I think it will be my procedure for additional parts if I can get them prepared beforehand and get a few decent days spread apart over the next few weeks. I've never painted in that cold a temperature but everything applied well (fast reducer) and seemed to dry nicely, even though the Centari was not recommended below 50F. No spec on the MP170 but I have read somewhere in general that epoxy catalyst gives up around 45F or so. Using this method I can go from Picklex-treated and ready for epoxy, to final topcoat in a couple of hours and stay with a catalyzed paint, providing the weather cooperates a little. Love that Centari. It sprays so nice and easy. I hadn't planned on getting into it this much this soon though. I am also finding a bunch of things that would need attention in the near future anyway and fixing them now - before they take the mower out of service unexpectedly - like some weld repairing, new ground runner surfaces, new tires, correcting all the frozen adjustments and repairing and lining the gas tank.

I am wagering this paint combination will last several years, at least, and the mower will be in better shape for having done it, no matter what happens later on. I guess time will tell.

Rod

Usually gas tanks will pit/pinhole on the inside due to condensation and the inability to drain or lack of regular maintenance draining. However, with this tank, the inside is surprisingly clean and all the pitting and metal loss is on the outside, although hidden from view by the support saddle. Normally, I would braze or soft solder such pinholes from the outside because with very careful light sanding, I can generally get enough clean, rust free metal exposed to make that a decent repair. In this case that's not a reasonable option. There is no way I can get the metal clean enough mechanically for that without destroying the bottom part of the tank in the process. Sandblasting is also not appropriate for the same reason. I suppose the purist would say that the only fix is cut out the bottom entirely and weld in a flush patch of good sheet steel. Either that or replace the tank. Well, new tanks are not available and used ones, if you are lucky enough to find one, may not be in much better shape. And while cutting out and welding in is possible, my skills and available forming tools for that are limited. Furthermore, I'm just not inclined to get into it that deep - or pay someone else to do it. So, what to do? I suppose I could do a fiberglass overlay similar to what I did on my truck roof but that would show quite noticeably and I'd prefer that it didn't in this case. Soooo, I am going to try out Por Patch from POR15. It's supposed to be an extra thick version of their POR paint and comes in a tube similar to polyester finishing putty. In addition to that, I plan on coating the interior with an epoxy lining from Caswell, since I have had good luck with that product in the past. That's the plan anyway. You know about the best laid plans... But hopefully it'll work out better than the ZR plan did.

Rod

Rod