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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Preparing Older Sheetmetal?

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Jak

11-18-2006 05:11:43




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1955 Oliver Super 88 Gas:I sanded the covers that go on the sides covering the gas tank and those sanded easily but the curtains are being tough.Seems like they have been painted more times than the other metal.What my question is,should I just buy some paint stripper or some 40/or 80 grit sandpaper for the DA sander or try to find someone to sandblast it?220 did fine on some pieces but not these.If you had good coverage of older paint w/o pitting and rust underneath would you paint over it?Do you prefer total stripping of old paint?Just looking for other opinions.I want it slick but it is also a puller not a show tractor.I know with all them flat surfaces the block sander is in order.A friend of mine painted his 1650 and 1850 with Napa alklyd enamel which looks great on his.Which paint would you prefer to use on your own?I thank you,Jack(TN).

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CNKS

11-18-2006 09:59:53




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 Re: Preparing Older Sheetmetal? in reply to Jak, 11-18-2006 05:11:43  
Opinions differ. What I do in your situation is chemically strip the paint, sand the bare metal with 100-180 grit to etch the metal and remove any rust that was under the paint (you will not know if you have rust until it is stripped), and use body filler on any dents. You can use either body filler or a 2 part putty for any pits. If you are unable to remove the rust in the pits, treat with a phosphoric acid product such as Picklex 20 (www.autobodystore.com) or Must for Rust (Home Depot). I do not use the "metalprep" type compounds, believing they are unnecessary. Sand smooth, and cover with epoxy primer. Some use epoxy first to prevent rust, I don't have that problem. Pay attention to the window for epoxy, usually 3-7 days depending on the specific epoxy, then apply urethane surfacer, sand with 400, repeat if necessary, then topcoat. I use acrylic urethane. Both the surfacer and topcoat require hardener. I use a supplied air system for protection from isocyanates in the hardener. If you don't have a supplied air system, use a lacquer primer surfacer over the epoxy and topcoat with acrylic enamel without hardener. The hardener used in most if not all epoxy primers do not contain isocyanates, meaning a charcoal mask is sufficient, but check the MSDS first. This is the simplified version, someone can answer your more detailed questions if you have any.

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B-maniac

11-18-2006 12:51:35




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 Re: Preparing Older Sheetmetal? in reply to CNKS, 11-18-2006 09:59:53  
Definately go to bare metal first.(chem. stripper) You say you want "slick"? Unless you are taking out/repairing every little nick/ding/crease etc,you may not want a glassy shine.Everything will show up. Since it doesn't sound like you have supplied air anyway,and it's gonna be a puller,I would use epoxy primer,then regular laquer type surfacers(if any) and either acrylic emamel(no-cat.) or regular old enamel. Let it sit outside for the first year you use it and it will take on a very "original" look.Not too glossy,but not flat either. Not the way I would do it,BUT your requirements are lot different than mine.Good Luck!

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