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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

when to buff a new paint job

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djw

11-21-2006 09:07:06




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Hello, I just finished painting my Ford 2600. I used Dupont Nasson acrylic enamel with hardener. Overall it turned out pretty nice, but my shop is not the cleanest and I noticed I have some dust on the horizontal parts, hood etc. I am thinking of wet sanding with 600 grit and then finishing with rubbing compound. Does this sound like the right procedure? How long should I wait? My shop is not heated at night, and I am in the north east. Thanks Dave

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glennster

11-21-2006 12:05:57




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 Re: when to buff a new paint job in reply to djw, 11-21-2006 09:07:06  
dry time will depend on temperature. with your paint i would wait 4-5 days, check in some out of the way spot with your thumbnail, press in to see if the paint is still soft, if not you can wet sand and buff. i would go with 1500 -2000 grit, 600 is pretty aggressive, and a bugger to buff the scratches out. they way we do it here at the shop, wet sand with 2000, warm water mixed with car wash soap, dunk a sponge in the water and hold it ablove where you are sanding, keep flushing the area with soapy water, dunk the paper in the water too. we then use a "presta" black heavy cutting pad (black in color) on the buffer with the presta ultra cutting creme to remove the 2000 scratches, then switch to a presta yellow or green pad, med or light cut and use 3m finesse it II finishing material , the switch to a presta blue pad, polishing pad and use 3m imperial machine glaze. you could also use meguiars m-5 machine glase, and then hand glaze with meguirars show car glaze. yeah it takes time, but doing it in stages elimates burning thru the paint and having to re shoot. also pick up a spur and clean the buffing pads often.

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B-maniac

11-21-2006 14:15:36




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 Re: when to buff a new paint job in reply to glennster, 11-21-2006 12:05:57  
Glennster has a good method. There are many. Since I don't believe most people who are not in it for a bussiness are going to go out and buy all this stuff,I will explain a little simpler and lower cost way to get the results you are asking about,that being dirt nibs. This is only if you have 1 or 2 every few inches or less. Otherwise do like Glennster said or sand and repaint it. Just "spot sand" with the paper on the end of your finger,and just very short strokes right on the dirt only,until it's flat. Then use a fine compound to rub the spot by hand to get the sand scratches out. Then use a hand glaze to shine up the compound haze. Lot less equipment and expense / same result. Again, if you have more than 10 or 15,go the complete route. It may even be better to just have a body shop tech come and do it for a side job. Check that option out. Good luck.

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