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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Paint Questions

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txasylum

12-20-2006 13:15:27




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I am not a painter, but I have painted before. I am getting ready to paint my JD70. I usually buy paint from NAPA. They have a TCI paint that is fairly inexpensive, but I guess it is recommended to use the conventional (not HVLP) gun. I figure I can use a HVLP gun with 2.0 tip.

I called local JD, they have gallon of paint that costs twice that of TCI, but the guy did not know anything about it. What kind it is or if I need a hardner.

I looked on this site. They have TISCO classic green for $39. But it doesn't tell me much more than that. Do I need a hardner? Do I need a reducer? The typical questions.

Of course the NAPA paint is the cheapest and I have used it before, but I am now switching guns to a HVLP, so not sure if that will cause problems.

Any advice on the paints I have described is greatly appreciated.

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El Toro

12-23-2006 11:16:50




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 Re: Paint Questions in reply to txasylum, 12-20-2006 13:15:27  
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I used my HVLP spray gun for painting this Troy Bilt tiller. I used PPG's single stage Omni polyurethane paint with hardener. The painting went very well and had no sags. My compressor is a borderline for the HVLP gun. They use a lot of air. I bought a quart of paint but I only used about a pint. The paint cost $29.00 and with hardener and thinner the total was around $70.00.
Hal

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Rod (NH)

12-20-2006 20:49:38




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 Re: Paint Questions in reply to txasylum, 12-20-2006 13:15:27  
Hi,

I am not familiar with TCI or JD paint but I'll offer an opinion. You should be able to use either a hvlp or a non-hvlp gun. For a gravity feed hvlp gun applying a topcoat, the 2.0mm tip is likely too large. See the instructions that came with the gun. A 1.4mm tip would be more typical. For a suction feed convential gun, a 1.8mm tip would be typical for topcoats of normal spray viscosity. The low-end paints are not always very specific about tip sizes or recommended amount of reduction (thinning). If you are going to use a gravity feed hvlp gun I'd start with a 1.4mm tip and review the can label for any recommended amount of reduction. Some low-end paints are not thinned at all. Some may require a bit of trial and error regarding reduction if not specific on the label.

You'll want to use a pressure gage at the gun inlet for accurate pressure adjustment. For hvlp, the maximum pressure should be stated on the gun handle or in the instructions that came with the gun in order to comply with hvlp standards. That varies for different gun manufacturers but is typically between 15 and 50 psig. My two hvlp gravity guns are 29 and 40 psig max respectively - stamped right on the handle. Setting it at the maximum will usually be satisfactory. For a conventional (non-hvlp) gun the recommended inlet pressures will not be on the gun. They are generally established by the paint companies in their technical data sheets. Those may not exist for the paints you are considering. For non-hvlp, enamels typically will used with between 40 and 60 pisg at the gun inlet, although you should review the instructions that came with the gun and the can label for any general guidance. In any case, you should measure it using a gage at the inlet and adjust your upstream regulator while the trigger is pulled and the fan adjustment is wide open. You don't need paint in the gun to do this. This is all assuming you are talking a spray gun supplied with regulated compressed air from a compressor and not a turbine-supplied gun. For a turbine gun, see the documentaion that came with it.

For the paints you are talking about, you probably do not need a hardener. The can label should advise you if any hardener is required or optional and how much of it to use. Regarding hardeners, I strongly suggest you review the health-safety issues involved in their use if you do not have a positive pressure fresh air respirator system.

third party image Rod

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txasylum

12-21-2006 05:17:44




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 Re: Paint Questions in reply to Rod (NH), 12-20-2006 20:49:38  
Thanks for the advice. I have been using the non-HVLP gun (suction) for a few paint jobs, but I just threw that away and am purchasing a gravity fed gun. I will play around with the paint spraying to get it set up right before spraying a top coat. I need to primer a couple more pieces, so I will use those as practice with the new gun.

Thanks for the response.



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ted snow

12-20-2006 16:19:47




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 Re: Paint Questions in reply to txasylum, 12-20-2006 13:15:27  
i dont have that much experiance with the gun i bought a fuji 4 stage hvlp ive had really good luck with it i use floetrol to help level the paint i just painted an old gravity box used tractor enamel paint from family farm (tsc-farm fleet) used the hardner on final coat,preped with the prinmer the paint was $19 for primer 22 for paint looked great had lots of gloss very little runs i used the #5 tip (1.8mm)and turned the paint down so it atomized a #4 was recamended (1.4mm)like i said i havent done much painting so feel free to pick my work apart and correct me but one thing ill say go ahead and buy an hvlp there is very little over spray not like the piston sprayers which will fog you out of the room but with a little practice you can lay down a nice job well happy holiday all ps ill take the camera to work tommorow and send you some pics.

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CNKS

12-21-2006 11:31:11




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 Re: Paint Questions in reply to ted snow, 12-20-2006 16:19:47  
Good luck with hardener in the final coat, you now have two curing methods, one on top of the other --- I hope your paint does not lift; it may not but is certainly possible. The nice thing about HVLP is that you can set it and forget it. Set the gun at the maximum pressure, all the way or at least no more than 1/2 turn in, full pattern on the fan, and it is virtually fool proof. You can do as you did, but why mess with it? The tips are easy to change, if you don't want a separate primer gun.

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CNKS

12-21-2006 11:37:11




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 Re: Paint Questions in reply to CNKS, 12-21-2006 11:31:11  
I should have said to set the air at the pressure stated on the gun, turn the FLUID control all the way out, then pull the trigger and turn the fluid control in no more than 1/2 turn after you feel pressure on the trigger. Fingers and brain do not talk to each other. That is pretty much an etched in stone setting as long as you don't want a smaller pattern. It will work every time.



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glennster

12-20-2006 14:15:29




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 Re: Paint Questions in reply to txasylum, 12-20-2006 13:15:27  
one other thing, dont use the 2.0 tip in the hvlp, it'll blow chunks out, wont atomize the paint good. with the hvlp you should have a 1.4 in there for color. see what the paint recommends for gun pressure, probably somewhere around 55 at the gun.



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glennster

12-20-2006 14:09:07




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 Re: Paint Questions in reply to txasylum, 12-20-2006 13:15:27  
if you are familiar with the napa brand, i would say go ahead and use that. you have shot it before and you are comfortable with it. you should not have any problems using the hvlp vs a conventional. if your paint is heavier (more viscous) than an automotive paint, you may need to reduce it a little more in the hvlp gun. the hvlp will use, in my approximation about 30-40% less material than a conventional gun. a lot less overspray. the gravity gun, cup on top, feel different, but work good, and will use all the material in the cup, unlike a siphon gun. the jd paints from the dealer do have hardeners, up to you if you want to use them. if it were me and i was shootin it, i'd throw the hardener in.

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