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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

PAINT QUESTION

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tallpa56

02-03-2007 19:46:09




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This is my first paint job, I blasted my tractor, then the paint store owner sold me this primer that I mixed with a hardner, it went on pretty good, it was a eurathane type, then I started checking on the paint for my cockshut, that paint store did not have that color, so I went to ppg store, he told me since I did not paint my tractor within so many hours, I will have to sand every bit of it or the paint will not stick, I can see sanding the hood and parts like that but I just cant see how a guy could ever sand in all of the little places like the nooks and grooves and stuff like that, also when I rebuilt the motor, as I was putting it together I took all paint off and just primed it with spray can primer and painted it with spray can cockshutt red, I was going to do this and then when it was in the tractor, I was going to paint the whole thing again, but now I am worried about the paint sticking to that paint, I would be real thankful if someone could tell me what I need to do, or what kind of paint I need or if I do have to sand every inch of it before the paint will stick..Thank You ...

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Brad_bb

02-05-2007 14:07:36




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 Re: PAINT QUESTION in reply to tallpa56, 02-03-2007 19:46:09  
This is not big problem at all. I do this all the time. I will strip and metal prep parts and get them all in epoxy primer. This way they are sealed and ready to start bodywork. It may be months or years(in a heated shop), before I get to them. That"s ok, just a quick going over with a maroon scotchbrite, then hit them with sealer coat of epoxy(more reducer added), then you are ready for paint or additional bodywork. No big deal. If you see scotchbriting the whole thing as a huge job, they I know you haven"t done much bodywork, cause that only takes 15 minutes or so.

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tallpa56

02-05-2007 18:02:33




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 Re: PAINT QUESTION in reply to Brad_bb, 02-05-2007 14:07:36  
Thank you, I am feeling alot better, whe you say add a little sealer coat of epoxy, are you talking about the same stuff I primed it with, I know that may me a silly question, but this is my first time and really know nothing about it, but am sure willing to learn, and like the idea of doing it all myself..thanks again.



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Farmallgray

02-04-2007 09:27:58




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 Re: PAINT QUESTION in reply to tallpa56, 02-03-2007 19:46:09  
I would follow B's advice and also try to hit every spot you can with a scothbrite scuff pad. You can get in to a lot of tight places with them without wasting a lot of time. The Urethane primer I have worked with can be recoated after the recoat window as long as you scuff sand within 8 hours of topcoating. Use the scuff pad on the engine too-enough to knock the shine off.



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CNKS

02-04-2007 09:24:08




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 Re: PAINT QUESTION in reply to tallpa56, 02-03-2007 19:46:09  
First you need to get the spec sheet for the primer, either from your unknowledgeable dealer or off the companies web site -- you did not mention the brand of primer. As B said it is probably epoxy as those have a window for topcoating, not hours, but days. At any rate, you probably do not need to sand it, you should get good adhesion if you use scotchbrite pads, which are a LOT easier than sanding. First tell us exactly what you used, there are several people on this forum, at least one of which can tell you what to do next, if not me someone is probably familiar with it.

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tallpa56

02-04-2007 18:39:37




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 Re: PAINT QUESTION in reply to CNKS, 02-04-2007 09:24:08  
Thank you for all of the information..The primer I used said Matrix on the can..Also it will be probably be 4 months after I primed it before it will be warm enough to paint, my thinking was since I blasted it and I had a 65 degree day I should prime it so it would not rust, so I will scuff up all the paint that I can but if there is a spot or two that I miss, will the paint not stick to those parts...Thanks again

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CNKS

02-04-2007 19:28:23




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 Re: PAINT QUESTION in reply to tallpa56, 02-04-2007 18:39:37  
Missed places with scotchbrite should be minimal, as the pads are flexible. You should be ok. As to it not sticking, some people just pressure wash and paint--seems to work, but it is not a recommended practice for a long lasting paint job. The link is for spec sheets for Matrix -- you might look at the one for the primer that you have and see what you need to do. They have several primers as do most companies, they are not all the same.

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B-maniac

02-04-2007 08:42:00




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 Re: PAINT QUESTION in reply to tallpa56, 02-03-2007 19:46:09  
I probably shouldn't tell you this because I will recieve a lot of flak. I assume you have 2 part Epoxy primer with a re-coat window on it now. I have painted/primered over epoxy after 3 weeks and never had an adhesion issue. On sheet metal , I would scotchbrite it and re-coat with epoxy and go by directions. Might not hurt to hit it all with a slightly thinned coat of epoxy as a sealer an hour before paint.(just my experience,proceed at own risk) Good luck! "B"

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