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Hi JRS, I'll offer a different opinion. Everyone has to start somewhere and many, if not most, DIYs do not have the luxury of "expert" one-on-one instruction, paid for or otherwise. After all, I doubt you are trying to win top prize at the Mercedes annual showfest. And you are probably not looking to be a painter as an occupation. Absolute perfection is seldom necessary for a DIY and some failures along the way to "good" are a part of learning something new and different. Remember, whatever you might mess up you can always repair, if necessary, to whatever level of satisfaction pleases you. A decent brief explanation of the color sanding and buffing process is given here. That's assuming you are talking about a catalyzed paint. You will generally not be able to compound (buff) a non-hardened enamel back to an acceptable shine once you dull it with sandpaper. If you only have a relatively small area, you can substitute an electric drill using an inexpensive wool bonnet from a box store. This whole business about painting your own tractor should be FUN and satisfying to yourself. Don't try to please someone else unless it's their tractor your painting. It should not be about competition or about show vehicles or about the highest cost products and equipment. Another thought if you are talking about the runs mentioned in your post below is the possibility of simply reshooting the part. I've done that before when I had a bad run or orange peel that I wasn't satisfied with. After sanding out the runs or whatever, just scuff the whole part and reshoot it, assuming it's catalyzed. Sometimes that's just easier, especially if there are ridges and edges that you need to keep away from with the buffer to avoid cutting right through to the primer. If that happens, you'll be reshooting the whole part anyway. It could even wind up looking more uniform too since you would not have a compounded part adjacent to an uncompounded one.  Rod
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