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Hi Brad, Check out the detailed usage information for the exact product you are using at the site CNKS linked to. That should (but might not) provide any manufacturer's guidance on the matter of recoating. I think in general you should consider the following: 1). The possibility that lifting will occur when recoating an enamel that has dried overnight. That is not as likely if you used a hardener, however it's still possible, depending on how aggressive the reducer is and the state of cure of the applied paint. If the manufacturer doesn't specifically address recoating after initial dry, then you should proceed with some caution. A test somewhere would be advisable. If you do experience lifting (wrinkling of the paint film), about the only "fix" is to strip it and start over. 2). Adhesion of the recoat paint film. If the manufacturer doesn't specifically address this issue with a stated time window where sanding is not necessary, my personal opinion is to scuff-sand any paint film that's dried overnight before adding any more paint on top of it. Do you have to do this? No - but adhesion will not be as good if you don't. 3). Overspray on unintended surfaces. You appear to have painted with only a minimum of disassembly and coverage in some areas needs to be improved. If that's true, you may have a problem with paint overspray where you don't want it unless you can realistically mask off the areas that do not need any "retouching". Or unless you reshoot everything again, paying more attention to the difficult areas. Tip: always paint the hard-to-get-at places first in the sequence of coverage for each coat, then proceed to the easy stuff. Better yet, disassemble to the maximum practical extent where you can achieve easy, even coverage for all sides of all parts. If you are not getting decent coverage in all areas with three coats, then you need to re-think and revise your application methods. For a single stage paint, you should be able to achieve "nearly complete" coverage on the first coat, "basically complete" coverage on the second and treat the third coat as a "fully complete, for good measure" deal. By coats here, I mean successive coats with the flash time between them measured in minutes not hours.  Rod
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