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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Down to the metal? Paint incompatibility? Priming?

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Chris Van der V

03-26-2007 08:10:29




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I am re-finishing a 1958 Oliver 550. I am using 120 grit wet-
and-dry paper by hand to remove an awful hand-painted wrong colour paint job and scratches etc. After a good time, I am down to the metal in places and to the original paint in other places depending on imperfections in the bodywork. All is nice and smooth and ready for me to rub metal and paint down to 400 grit before spraying with cans of oil-based enamel.
Now, I have been told that new paint on old might be a recipe for disaster. How long does it take before I know?? This is NOT a show tractor, but I want the paint to last reasonably well.

I have tested one small piece of sheet metal. I primed it over metal and old paint with TISCO alkyd primer (purchased from this site), and have done two top coats of TISCO alkyd enamel. Two days later, all seems just fine - no cracking/peeling.
So to ask my question again - does this seem OK, or can paint incompatibility effects appear weeks or months later? If so, I will have to rub the whole darned thing down to the metal! Not easy by hand.
Secondly, is a good quailty auto wax the best topcoat, or is there some clear sealer that you would recomend to protect it further?
Thanks for your advice.

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glennster

03-28-2007 05:53:05




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 Re: Down to the metal? Paint incompatibility? Prim in reply to Chris Van der Vyver, 03-26-2007 08:10:29  
generally lifting will occur as soon as you apply a topcoat. the reducers in the new paint react with the old substrate causing it to release and lift. real common in the old days when you would lacquer prime over and enamel paint. your tisco paint is an enamel, and your test area hasnt fifted, so you should be ok. use the hardener with the tisco paint, it will give you a more durable finish. dont put a clear coat over it, i would just use a good wax. wait a couple months before you wax it so the paint gets time to flash off the solvents.

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Chris Van der Vyver

04-02-2007 11:58:53




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 Re: Down to the metal? Paint incompatibility? Prim in reply to glennster, 03-28-2007 05:53:05  
Thanks Gster. I know by this site's standards, I am doing a quick, cheapo job, but this is a working tractor, and my paint booth is my work washroom with the fan on! It now looks green!
Do you have any advice on how many coats and what to do between them? On my first serious attempt, I have done three coats with 400grit roughing between coats, and it looks pretty good to my eye.
Also, can you recommend a wax? There are so many false idols out there in advertising land!

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glennster

04-02-2007 12:20:36




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 Re: Down to the metal? Paint incompatibility? Prim in reply to Chris Van der Vyver, 04-02-2007 11:58:53  
chris, what i wuld do to apply the color coats using the tcs paint, put a lite coat first, called a tack coat, let it flash off for about a 1/2 hour or so, then apply your second coat, lay it on good, but be carefull so it dont run. if your happy with it you can stop at 2, or wait an hour and apply a third coat. with the tisco, it doesnt harden quick like an automotive paint, so dont try and tack rag between coats. for wax products, i like the mequiars waxes. wait a good month before you wax the fresh paint. get the tractor out in the sun a couple days after you paint it, helps the drying process.

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Chris Van der Vyver

04-02-2007 12:38:05




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 Re: Wax finish on alkyd paints in reply to glennster, 04-02-2007 12:20:36  
Link
Wax

Just went to their site and then called them. They tell me this is the best...thanks for the multiple coats advice! That's how I will proceed.
Gster.



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