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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Rust-Oleum

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Anthony Casteel

04-03-2007 20:33:09




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This is my first time painting with a gun so i need some help. I am painting my tractor just so i can get proficiency awards for scholarship money through the F.F.A.

I bought 3 cans of rust-oleum and i was told to use reducer and hardener. So i went to the auto body paint store and told the man what i was doing....Which is painting my cub cadet and asked about the hardener and reducer and he told me he would not sell me any of it because he did not know how it would react with the paint and did not want to be held responsible for destroying my gun.

After i left i called another auto body paint store and told them i have synthetic enamel and they said that is is universal and can use it on any paint and it will act the same.

So i cant go back to the paint store because they are closed and i would like to get up at the crack of dawn to start primering but my big qustion is the can suggest to thin the primer and paint out with mineral spirits or acetone but does not say anything about useing a hardener at all.

So should i just thin the paint with what it recomends or go and buy the reducer and hardener.

Now this is by no means a show tractor and i will be working it so that is why i did not spend 30 dollars on I.H. paint but insted 30 bucks on one gallon of rust destroyer, quart of yellow and a pint of almond so thats the differance.

Thanks

Anthony C.

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Scott, MO

04-07-2007 06:46:04




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 Re: Rust-Oleum in reply to Anthony Casteel, 04-03-2007 20:33:09  
first off, you don't need hardener in acyrilic enamal. You can, but it is not necisarry. It will dry on it's own, it will be slower drying time, but that just allows the paint to flow out more and look better. Hardener also makes the paint more brittle, and cause it to chip easier, and on a tractor, that's not what you want, if your gonna be using the tractor, your better off without the hardener. As for mixing, and thining, I use enamal reducer, and depending on what the temp I am gonna be spraying at, I use accordingly, Low temp, med. or high temp reducer. You can get it at your auto paint supply store. I just got done painting my WD in 60 dergrees, & I used low temp reducer, it was tacking in 20 minutes, and was dry to the touch in 12 hours. To mix, get a mixing container at your Auto paint store, they come in various sizes, I use a quart, It will have all the ratios listed around the container at the top. My paint called for a reducer rate of 4:1, all you do is find the column at the top with the 4:1 ratio. Then fill with paint to one of the lines on the left side of the column, they are volume amounts, no need to worry, so if you fill with paint to line 6, then top off with reducer to the next line 6 in the next column, it's not gonna be alot. Then if you want to use hardener, you top off to the next line 6 in the 3rd column. It's that easy, mix, and pour in your gun using a filter strainer. Good luck, I hope this helps.

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rustyj14

04-04-2007 14:48:32




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 Re: Rust-Oleum in reply to Anthony Casteel, 04-03-2007 20:33:09  
I sprayed several sections of Cub Cadet tractor parts with Rust-oleum paint. The paint seller said to use mineral spirits to reduce(thin) the paint. So i did, and it turned out good! Now--hear this!:: Rust-oleum is not synthetic enamel!! It has a fish oil base in it, and will probably gel with hardener. And, using hardener in it will only cause more problems than it saves! My suggestion to you is this: go thru this section, read the various posts and replies! there is a whole lot of good advice here, and i say: Read it, then decide if you want to spray it, or brush it! I painted the bed on my old Ranger pickup last summer, with Rust-oleum, using foam brushes, and it still shines, looks good, and covered well! And, foam brushes are cheap! There is a whole bunch of stuff that you must know, and have experience doing, before you can paint your tractor, and get it good enough to win an award! I did auto body work and painting, and it took me 5 years just to be allowed to prime the parts! So, go figure! Looks easy!! AIN'T!

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Rexalot

04-12-2007 21:44:39




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 Re: Rust-Oleum in reply to rustyj14, 04-04-2007 14:48:32  
I painted several trucks with "rustoleum" paint. I used acetone to thin instead of naptha or mineral spirits. I also used an oil based paint hardner and a few drops of "fish eye reducer", mixing it to the ratios given on the back of the cans. It sprayed nice, covered well, and I had no problems with orange peel etc. The end product was nice and glossy. I kept one truck several years after painting it and it still looked good.

I would paint with rustoleum again in this fashion. Might not be "correct" but I had good results.

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