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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Beginner Painting Instruction

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Henry Co

04-05-2007 07:42:23




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Is there a book that tells you what to do if you want your tractor repainted? I have a 51 H in good shape. Got a quote from a guy who does tractors to sandblast, prime, and paint sheet metal fenders and rims but what about the rest of the tractor (he said he didn't sand blast the engine). What needs to come Off the tractor? Wires? Lights and glass?




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Brad_bb

04-06-2007 08:43:40




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 Re: Beginner Painting Instruction in reply to Henry Co, 04-05-2007 07:42:23  
Have a look at my Ford 960 restoration album by clicking the link below. There you can see dissassembly. You can see all the parts I had stripped. I used a process called electrolytic alkaline dipping. You can also see the main frame of the tractor. I removed the engine and reassembled the front end and frame rails, but with a MDF cover I made for the bell housing and a plastic seal. I also duct taped all areas I wanted to protect. I left the steering wheel on so that the tractor could be steerd, but covered the steering wheel in plastic and duct tape to protect it. Sand will try to get in anywhere it can when sand blasting so you have to seal up all critical areas as best you can and instruct the blaster to watch the taped areas and try not to blast them too much. After I got the chassis back I prepped, primed and painted it. Then I took the wheels off and stripped and restored those. To do it right, it is at least a 6 month project. I haven"t been working on it full time so I am almost at one year. My final assembly will be done in a few weeks though. Don"t forget, you can"t jump right to paint. Proper stripping and sealing and then body working of parts like fenders, sheetmetal and rims take the most time and work. I would also encourage you to do as much dissassembly yourself as you can. Document the hardware and locations with photos and notes so you know when it"s time to reassemble. Clean all the hardware you can (preferably bead blast in a cabinet) and you send it out for plating. I use www.detailplating.com for silver zinc plating. No one else will do as good a job as you will, so the more you can do the better. You should also do the reseach to understand more come reassembly time, and figuring out which parts get plated, painted or some other finish. If on the other hand you just want a quickie half-a%$ paint job over top of everything, it will be cheap and you will get what you pay for. It all depends on your intention. Personally I use the best materials and techniques because that"s the only way my nature will allow. My restorations will last though and really wow others and me. I enjoy the process itself more than the finished product even though there are some steps that are less than fun. Final assembly of a top quality restoration is the most satifying thing.

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Brad_bb

04-06-2007 08:46:51




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 Re: Beginner Painting Instruction in reply to Brad_bb, 04-06-2007 08:43:40  
Link didn"t show up on first post. Here it is:



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ORS

04-05-2007 10:42:03




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 Re: Beginner Painting Instruction in reply to Henry Co, 04-05-2007 07:42:23  
It all depends on what kind of final result you want. If you want paint on your wire harness, on your lights and rims that is up to you. Sometimes it is just as easy to just remove the parts rather than to spend time masking them off. On the non-cab tractors we do here, all sheet metal, wiring, wheels, steering wheel and components,lights, gauges, etc. are removed. The final result is much more appealing. Like I said to each his or her own, but good enough just does not fly, especially when it is a customers tractor. I believe your tractor quote guy was steering you in the right direction. Check out the other replies and go from there.

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