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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Paint runs

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MTC

04-11-2007 18:47:15




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Need some advice guys.I am by far no paint expert. I have been having trouble getting a few runs in my paint.I use the cheap Farm and Fleet paint and follow directions and give a tractor 3 coats of paint.Will better paint help?Been thinking of the single stage PPG paint.Any advice?Thanks




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Brad_bb

04-12-2007 07:41:27




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 Re: Paint runs in reply to MTC, 04-11-2007 18:47:15  
It"s the surface the paint is gripping to and the amount of paint you are putting on. I usually spray single stage PPG DCC. The first coat is called the tack coat. You don"t spray for full coverage, you"re just putting a light mist coat on and letting it tack up. This will form a tacky surface for the next coat to grip and hold too. Too wet a coat and the next coat will not stick properly and will try to mix with the underlying wet coat and run. Too much paint in a coat will do the same. The second coat should be a medium coat. It should then dry enough to be plenty tacky but not dry. You can usually see the difference when the surface flashes off. You should have sufficient light to see this too. Once it"s flashed off, which with DCC is usually in 5-10 minutes, you have a window to spray the next coat. This window varies depending on conditions, temp etc. I will typically shoot the next coat anywhere between 6-15 minutes. All painters, even the pro"s will run from time to time, but with experience you can really minimize it alot. Early on I really ran the heck out of a couple things til I learned. The other comment about the viscosity was right on too. When I do custom mixes where I"m adding flattener and adjusting the reducer, I have to be real careful if I"ve thinned the mix a bit too much. It will have more of a tendency to run if you have.

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Mike M

04-12-2007 06:37:11




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 Re: Paint runs in reply to MTC, 04-11-2007 18:47:15  
Keep some masking tape handy as you can lift that run right off with it. Use a new piece everytime and just gently let the sticky side touch the run then lift it off. Let it sit some then respray over that area.



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Ors

04-12-2007 04:36:44




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 Re: Paint runs in reply to MTC, 04-11-2007 18:47:15  
Painting is like anything else you do it takes a lot of practice and patiences. One can come up with a million excuses for mistakes. So step one is to admit your at fault, which you have done. Take a look at this link I got off of this site from someone else. Rather than to go through the whole process with you and to save time check it out. I am sure it will be helpful. If you still have problems narrow down your problem and re-reply hope it will be useful
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/reference/troubleshooting_guide/

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circus

04-11-2007 21:20:00




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 Re: Paint runs in reply to MTC, 04-11-2007 18:47:15  
The paint runs because you don't what it too. If you don't care, it wont run. So prior to spraying chant "I don't care" "I don't care". PS light first coat and plenty of time between coats.



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john_bud

04-11-2007 19:50:44




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 Re: Paint runs in reply to MTC, 04-11-2007 18:47:15  
Better paint may help, but it may just make more expensive runs too. Mostly runs are caused by 4 things (just my experience here - not a pro!)

1) Paint is mixed too thin
2) Paint is laid on too thick at once
3) Paint is top coated too soon - can be either impatience or reducer is wrong for the temperature you are spraying at.
4) Gun it not set up correctly to atomize the paint fine enough.

In general, the catalyzed paints set up faster and are more forgiving. Try holding the gun farther away and use 2-5 psi more pressure. Mess with various fans, pressures, hand speeds and see what works the best.

good luck

jb

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B-maniac

04-12-2007 16:30:10




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 Re: Paint runs in reply to john_bud, 04-11-2007 19:50:44  
One thing not mentioned here is that with the "economy" synthetic enamels especially , but all paints to a certain extent , you have to anticipate and allow for the flow of the paint after you spray it on. All paint will continue to flow out after you are done spraying it on. Many factors will dictate just how much and how long. There's only two ways to know how much to apply to get it to flow sufficiently for no orange peel but still no runs. One way is lots of trial and error and runs and dry spray (experience). The other way is to have some old car sheet metal parts around to do test sprays on before you do the main object. Takes a little extra paint but saves paint and labor in the end. The human ego will prevent most people from doing it this way because it requires that one admit from the git-go that you have no idea what that paint is gonna do and what it wants. Once you have a few years under your belt you will get pretty good at making the judgement call without the test panel. Try spraying the "old" style paints in metallics where you have to get a glassy shine , no runs AND get the flake to lay out evenly without "mottleing" also! I've had to teach a few pretty good painters this art because you just won't figure it out on your own without screwing up a lot of jobs. The correct method defies common sense and reason but it is the only thing that works good. Last words; use test panels!!

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MTC

04-12-2007 17:04:53




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 Re: Paint runs in reply to B-maniac, 04-12-2007 16:30:10  
THANKS GUYS I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR ADVICE.Mike



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rustyj14

04-16-2007 18:14:38




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 Re: Paint runs in reply to MTC, 04-12-2007 17:04:53  
During my years of auto painting, i found, along with the preceding advice, that starting at the bottom of any flat vertical panel, will help to minimize runs and sags! Also, when spraying across the side door panels, stop spraying several inches from the edges, to minimize runs, and it will keep the paint coat more even. And, any inside curve should be sprayed less than the rest of the area. Especially if you are spraying other intersecting panels. Don't try to cover the primers in the first coats! The second coat should do that. I also pre-coated the inner door and panel edges, then closed the doors and lids on the first latch. Get some old doors or fenders from a body shop and practice painting them with them in their respective positions, not lying flat. I'll tell you-after spray painting hundreds of cars and trucks, and stretching my arms to clear the first coats, has made my arms much longer! the main thing that causes trouble in painting, is inexperience with the materials at hand, and inexperience with spray painting in general! It looks easy--it ain't! Only took me 6 years to finally learn it, but it was a case of do it, or else!

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