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I've done trailers and a few old trucks (not for show) in the following manner, Wash with soapy water to get all the crud off. I'll hit the rough spots with 60 grit, smooth them out with some putty, sand with 60, then 80 then spray bomb prime. I then sand the entire item with 100 or 150. Blow off the dust, then I use a solvent (like acetone or surfacer prep cleaner like "klix") to clean the surface by wiping it down. You could also use a tack cloth but it would take quite a few to do the job, so I solvent wash first. Mask what you don't want paint on and your ready. Just my opinion, but I think silver is one of the harder paints to learn to paint with. Metallics, like silver, can "zebra" stripe if not kept agitated in the paint cup. I usually put a big ball bearing in the bottom of my cup and give it a swirl after every other pass. I suppose you could use a nut or small bolt to do the same. I don't know whose paint product your going to use, but I have have painted with "rustoleum" on objects like you intend to do, I thin with acetone (rather than naptha or mineral spirits)and have used an enamel hardner. The ratio I use is 4 (cups) paint 2 (cups) reducer, and 1/2 (cup) hardner. I vary the reducer amount based on how well the paint flows. It would cost just under $50, ($20 for 1 gallon paint, $14 for 1 gallon acetone, and $10 for can of hardner). I'm not a big fan of TSC store brand truck and tractor paints. They fade or dull over time. I have used them, but I'll stick with "white" or other light colors. There is a caution about using a hardner. It's recommended to have a forced air respirator. It's up to you if you chooses to spend $$$ for that type of mask should you use a hardner. I do strongly suggest that even if painting outside you atleast get a good quality and well fitting chemical respirator for paints. I myself paint outside, and other than the occasional bug or blade of grass I don't have any problems with my finish. I put the item back inside overnight to avoid the dew.
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