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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

filling in pitted metal

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jr150hp

08-11-2007 15:27:22




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hey gents. i just got my loader back from the blaster should i hit it with some sort of rust killer before i prime it also what is the right order of doing this primer the fill in the pits, i was told to use icing to fill them in thanks alot you gentlmen are very good your safety is next to none we sure all apprecate your wisdom Jr.




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Patrick Martin

08-30-2007 11:26:23




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 Re: filling in pitted metal in reply to jr150hp, 08-11-2007 15:27:22  

jr150hp said: (quoted from post at 15:27:22 08/11/07) hey gents. i just got my loader back from the blaster should i hit it with some sort of rust killer before i prime it also what is the right order of doing this primer the fill in the pits, i was told to use icing to fill them in thanks alot you gentlmen are very good your safety is next to none we sure all apprecate your wisdom Jr.


One word....POR-15.

This stuff works like no other. I live in Louisiana and things rusting is pretty much an every day part of our life. Go here..... ...
Link

It's sort of like a polymer and resists abrasion and chipping as well as acid, rust, etc.
All of my trailers and tractors and equipment is finished with POR-15 and all of my restored collector vehicles are fully armored with POR-15 as a primer.

I did a neighbors front blade on his dozer and topcoated it with yellow and to this day despite all of the yellow being scraped off the black POR-15 coat is still there.

One word of caution though, it is imperative that you follow the directions and prep correctly prior to applying this product. POR-15 will not adhere to smooth surfaces and requires a surface with some tooth to it. Sandblasted surfaces are best, you can use it as a primer here.

You still ought to spray it with the prep solution or a weak acid to etch it. You don't have to buy their stuff, any decent acid will work. I use naval jelly most of the time and spread it on thin then wash it off. You can paint directly over rust too, this is the only stuff I have used that actually works like that and delivers results. Its best to blast it however because to ensure a smooth finish, otherwise you will have to get a torch and cook it off if you want to go back in and do some surface cleanup.

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jr150hp

08-13-2007 07:01:15




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 Re: filling in pitted metal in reply to jr150hp, 08-11-2007 15:27:22  
thanks Glen. I'm healing great no pain killers in 5 days as of now. Yes very humid here in the great lake state. You got me headed in the right direction i'll send in photos of the project it's a wagner wm4 loader i'll need help getting this up and running also thank god for such a great forum. And thanks to all you gentlemen for you help and concern . JR.



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GlenIdaho

08-12-2007 14:37:51




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 Re: filling in pitted metal in reply to jr150hp, 08-11-2007 15:27:22  
Hey JR, how are you feeling? Read your post that you are still continuing to heal up. Bet being layed up has been driving you nuts.

If you live in a humid or wet area you probably already have some rust forming. You'll need to remove all signs of rust and then you can fill any dents with body filler and the pits with the Icing. Sand smooth and primer. If you're looking for that super smooth auto finish you can use a filler primer, sand smooth and cover with an expoxy sealer primer and then top coat. Some will use a rust inhibitor primer over the body work and then follow with an epoxy primer. Others just use an exposy primer. From what I understand about expoxy is that its adherence properties are such that it seals out any moisture and air which causes rust. Do a search of the archives using "pitted metal" as your query and you'll get some good information. Hope this helps.

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Brad_bb

08-17-2007 12:12:34




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 Re: filling in pitted metal in reply to GlenIdaho, 08-12-2007 14:37:51  
yep, Glen is right on track. I use epoxy primer (PPG DPLF) over clean prepped bare metal. If you don"t have flash rust you can apply some bodyfillers directly to the baremetal. Typically you can do this with fillers that have rust inhibitors, like Z-chrome and a number of others. These days I use Evercoat Z-Grip body filler because it sands slighly better than Z-Chrome. After the roughout filler work is done, I also follow up with sprayable filler called Rust Defender, to fill pin holes and minor divots. It"s not filler primer It"s actual sprayable filler. Then I follow with filler primer. Then epoxy sealer to seal your bodywork.

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