Sanding Blocks?

The main part is curved & using a small sander & a Hand Drywall Sander type board worked fairly well.

What works on the inside curve so you don't end up with an non uniform uneven surface.
Thanks for the Info

Just recently tried painting with a real spray gun (HVLP) for the first time.
Sure easier than spray cans & much much better results.
Wish I had been using one years ago.
Just really learning, but the results already are more than worth it.

Using marine enamel (high gloss urethane)
Quite easy to apply & even with a brush the paint flows so well you don't notice brush marks ( a better finish with a spray gun however)

Recommended by local tractor club fellow.
Main reasons easy to match & fix errors & regular carbon safety masks & thinners can be used.
Also the price is right

The finished product looks excellent at least for a tractor.

Down side is it does take up to 4 hours to dry & perhaps longer term shine durability?

Just one more basic question.
Have never seen a flexible pad for sale?
Specialty autobody Stores must have them.

Thanks again for the info

I use a HVLP too. Had some issues with getting it adjusted, but I think I've got it now. I used Omni epoxy primer and acrylic urethane top coat for durability. It's supposed to last very well. Have fun with your project!

Here are some tips from Brad_bb that he passed on to me. That in parenthesis is added by me for clarification.I imagine that others have their technique, but these seemed to work for me.

"On the hood, (the Ford hood is rounded at the top) you want to sand at about a 20 degree angle to the center. Draw an imaginary line from end to end on the crown. Now sand at a 20 degree angle to that in each direction. Keep your sanding pad parallel to this line. Apply only enough pressure to assure contact on the whole sanding pad. Do not push hard or apply uneven pressure. I'd do a couple passes in one direction, then a couple in the other direction (other 20 degrees. As soon as you "go too far", it's not a sign of going too far, but of not having enough filler material on the surface. You are trying to bring everything up to the level of those high spots (or you should be). This also assumes that your high spot didn't need to be massaged down when it was bare metal. I like using the sprayable filler and block sanding with that. I think you get a straight surface more quickly and then only use the filler primer to fill sanding scratches(and block it with 320).
....I fogged the pannel(cheap black spray paint) so that when I block it in a criss cross pattern with long sweeping strokes, the fog will be removed from everywhere but the low areas. That will tell me where if at all I need to go back and apply filler primer, or metal glaze, or more filler primer, depending on the depth of the low. You know your bodywork is complete when you can block the fog off and not leave any low spots. It's a lot of tedious work, but you get better and faster at it as you go along and the rewards are worth it. There are sanding pads that are too hard and too soft. some are meant for roughout filler work(hard) and some are meant for wetsanding clear (soft). I want somewhere in the middle for blocking."

Hope this helps you.