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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

runs fixing

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Connals

09-11-2007 19:35:27




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I have been trying to fix some runs with razor blades and sand paper. I finish by polishing with a 3 inch polisher. I am not happy with the results. I still see what looks like a stain where the run was. Any tips?




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PhilC

09-16-2007 20:00:52




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 Re: runs fixing in reply to Connals, 09-11-2007 19:35:27  

glennster said: phil, you prolly got the same salesmen that come in our shop. always got some new super duper product that you just cant live without. after you buy em, you find out.....you can live without em.


Got that right. I do the buying for the shop, and I spend the bosses' money like it was my own - and I'm real stingy. I think our jobber's outside sales guy quit bringing company reps to our shop because I don't buy. Then again, I'm always knee deep in a project when they show up too, and don't have time to jaw with them.

I like 3M detail products, but use Buff & Shine pads on my electric buffer. To me, any quality white wool pad seems just like any other. I prefer the Super Buff pads on an air buffer, but my air buffer is quite the air hog (it's a nice lightweight Dynabrade).

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Jeff Mans

09-16-2007 06:44:23




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 Re: runs fixing in reply to Connals, 09-11-2007 19:35:27  
Best results, wet sand with 3M 1500 grit than 2000 grit. I like to use the "Perfect it 3 Buffing compound" Than the Perfect it dark foam polish" with a good buffer.



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B-maniac

09-14-2007 19:18:44




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 Re: runs fixing in reply to Connals, 09-11-2007 19:35:27  
I will assume you are talking about a solid color as apposed to a metallic. If you are "fussy" you will always be able to see it. When you spray a solid color , there is also some clear in the formula. The clear floats to the top and solids settle to the bottom and that is what gives you the UV screening and the shine. When you sand down through the minute clear layer as you would have to in order to flatten out a run , then you are down into the solids and even though you may be able to get it to shine by buffing , it will still have a different "look" and age or fade quicker. Most people that don't know it's there will never see it but if you are as fussy as I think you are , sand it smooth , let it cure , hit it again with 600 wet and repaint it.

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PhilC

09-14-2007 14:49:58




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 Re: runs fixing in reply to Connals, 09-11-2007 19:35:27  
Glennster - The first two photos look just like the stuff on my detail cart at work. We use different final detail products, but they all get to the same end result. 8)

Connals - It takes a lot of practice to learn the razor blade technique, it's possible you've either not gone far enough, or you've gone too far. I know, that's not a lot of help is it.third party image

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glennster

09-15-2007 15:02:19




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 Re: runs fixing in reply to PhilC, 09-14-2007 14:49:58  
phil, you prolly got the same salesmen that come in our shop. always got some new super duper product that you just cant live without. after you buy em, you find out.....you can live without em. i still like the 3m products. schlagel and presta make about the best pads for the money. i think all the stuff comes out of the same giant vat somewhere, and the prettier the can it comes in, the more they charge ya!!! lol.

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glennster

09-12-2007 08:00:20




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 Re: runs fixing in reply to Connals, 09-11-2007 19:35:27  
you may not be able to get it out. the way we sand out a run here at the shop, wet sand with 1200-1500 grit paper and a rubber block. then buff with a heavy compound and a wool pad, switch to a softer pad and lighter compound, then to a polishing pad and swirl mark remover. here are some pictures of the different products we use. you can probably get some stuff from napa, and get good results.
third party image
third party image
third party image

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