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Dan Adkins
11-28-2007 07:09:11
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Re: Entering unknown territory..advice appreciated in reply to mskoch, 11-28-2007 00:03:24
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Hey, read your comments about the plane. Like you, I've used PPG and DBC for years and have done about everything from motorcycles to dune buggys, restored old cars and trucks, old farm tractors,even Semis and fiberglass strand work. I been in the body work business for about 30 years, although retired now as a trucker, I still have a body shop that I do work in on the side when I get bored. I dont understand exactly what your looking for outta this, but I have some ideas that will probably solve your problem as to what your wanting. Theres a few techniques that you can hide rivets, although time consuming, countersink your rivets approx. 1/16 then cover them with long and strong. You can get a good hard base acrylic primer that takes a hardner and reducer, let it set for about 2 hrs. before sanding after shooting it on,then sand it with 180 grit and shoot it again. Repeat this several times, long hard job but great results, fills and levels great. Just be sure to use a paint paddle with the paper to level it, get a hard base coat paint like emeron, mix it 2 parts color, to 1 part reducer, to 1 cap hardner, that is like steel, the drying time before putting your clear on is a lttle different, you just have to judge that according to your temperature where your painting and to the touch and feel of drying. If the luster finish is what your wanting then that takes a little time also. You need to give it a 2 to 3 coats of clear then let it set for about a week, that makes sure the catylyists are set, take 400 grit, yeah thats right, 400, wet sand it real good, that will always sand the dirt out as you go for the next coat, then shoot it again 2 or 3 more coats of clear and let it set again. You wont see any scratches or marks at all so dont worry. Depending on how deep you want the finish to look, repeat this step as needed. When thats all done and your ready to buff it, wet sand it with 1500 grit real good, dont gob the compound on your pad. Use just enough to get the job done. Make sure you got plenty of clean pads and switch them every 15 minutes or so. This will eliminate some of your swirl marks. After compounding it, do the same with the glaze in the same way and dont gob the pad. Just enough to get it shineing real good. Now if your not going to use stick on decals and you want to paint them on and you want them covered with clear, do that before you put your first coat of clear on if you want, or you can also do it after the first coat dries but let that paint dry good, use a scotch pad only on your decals before clearing over them. This will eliminate feeling the decal lines or stick ons coming off. Well, thats about all the ideas I got and I dont think there will ever be a problem with any paint lifting. Like I said, I've been doing this for years and luckily and honestly, knock on wood, I've never had the first one come back on me for paint failure or clear lifting. Hope this may have been some help to you and to all, HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!! Send me an e-mail if you want and let me know how it turns out or if you think this will work. If you dont thik its what you need, let me know and we can figure out something else. Dan Adkins
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