Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

painting in the cold

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
loneranger27

01-15-2008 16:28:39




Report to Moderator

HI everyone,
I have a basket case 1030 that I have been rebuilding and putting back together and I have everything on the motor done and i want to paint all of the external part before i put them on so i do not have to take it all apart when i finally paint the whole tractor. I have read on here that a few have used torpedo heaters to heat it warm enought to paint but said they got an OK paint job. I am considering this as I live in southern illinois and it wont be warm enough to paint for a couple months and I dont want to wait that long to put the engine together. Am i making a mistake?? Your input is appreciated. I really only care about the parts being orange no cracked paint.

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
PhilC

01-27-2008 17:51:17




Report to Moderator
 Re: painting in the cold in reply to loneranger27, 01-15-2008 16:28:39  

rustyj said: I tried painting some toy tractor parts in my garage that was heated by a torpedo heater and what did i get??? FISH-EYES!! BIG FISHEYES!


Wasn't a kerosene torpedo heater was it? :mrgreen:



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
rustyj

01-27-2008 11:25:45




Report to Moderator
 Re: painting in the cold in reply to loneranger27, 01-15-2008 16:28:39  
I tried painting some toy tractor parts in my garage that was heated by a torpedo heater and what did i get??? FISH-EYES!! BIG FISHEYES!



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Mike S 806/H

01-23-2008 12:47:28




Report to Moderator
 Re: painting in the cold in reply to loneranger27, 01-15-2008 16:28:39  
I painted my Farmall 450 engine in freezing weather it was caseih paint with med reducer, engine was bare metal and just wanted some paint on it, after spraying out side I put in the shop about 45 in there, took about 5 days to dry enough to handle , has been 3 years now and looks great,



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
soundguy

01-21-2008 12:36:53




Report to Moderator
 Re: painting in the cold in reply to loneranger27, 01-15-2008 16:28:39  
I agree with CNKS.. temp is important.. so is humidity.

The last tractor i painted.. some days were cool.. the days that were int e 60's.. i painted at 68'.. and I was worried that it was not going to turn out as well.. so i only did cast parts.. i waited till 70's temps and up for the tinwork..

Some of the test shots i made that morning on scrap tin in the mid 60's was not turning out well.

soundguy

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
PhilC

01-18-2008 20:58:18




Report to Moderator
 Re: painting in the cold in reply to loneranger27, 01-15-2008 16:28:39  
It can be done down to about 60, but no lower unless you want all the problems glennster mentioned. You must match reducer and catalyst to the temp or your efforts, and paint, will be wasted. This goes for very hot temperatures too!

The shop I work at doesn't have a heated air make-up booth (glad I'm the bodyman) so we deal with this all the time from late Oct - May. It sucks (no pun intended) to have to rely on shop heat to paint with, but we get it done every day and turn out quality work too.

The hardest part will be getting the temp to a useable zone, and keeping it there long enough to paint. Once you turn your heat off, the temp will start dropping quickly, even more so if you have an exhaust system (you're not painting without one right?) and limited to no insulation in your shop.


jd b puller said: CNKS, you said, absolute minimum of 65*. What if it's not that warm? Will it just take longer for the paint to dry, or will the finish suffer? Durability, etc.


Then you should not paint, because the paint won't dry (it won't cure either) and the finish will suffer. You nailed it - no durability.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CNKS

01-15-2008 17:59:43




Report to Moderator
 Re: painting in the cold in reply to loneranger27, 01-15-2008 16:28:39  
You do not want a flame or spark from any source if there are paint fumes in the area. You can use the heater, but shut it off before you begin to paint, and don't relight it until all fumes are gone. You need an absolute minimum of 65 degrees when you paint and for several hours afterward as the paint dries. Depends on what you call "OK".



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
jd b puller

01-16-2008 13:49:28




Report to Moderator
 Re: painting in the cold in reply to CNKS, 01-15-2008 17:59:43  
CNKS, you said, absolute minimum of 65*. What if it's not that warm? Will it just take longer for the paint to dry, or will the finish suffer? Durability, etc. Thanks,



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
glennster

01-16-2008 14:32:31




Report to Moderator
 Re: painting in the cold in reply to jd b puller, 01-16-2008 13:49:28  
depending on the paint, but, the solvents will not flash off correctly if your temperature is not in the range for the reducer. you can run in to adhesion problems, and if the reducer is too "hot" ie slow to flash, it could bite in and start to dissolve the primer coats and possibly body fillers. then you run into the problem with dust and dirt getting in the wet paint before it sets. last, if its too cold, it wont set quick enough and you will get sags and runs.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
61-4010

01-16-2008 11:41:55




Report to Moderator
 Re: painting in the cold in reply to CNKS, 01-15-2008 17:59:43  
What about using a oil radiator type heating. Those are sealed....so they should work for heating purposes. Yes?



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CNKS

01-16-2008 12:15:59




Report to Moderator
 Re: painting in the cold in reply to 61-4010, 01-16-2008 11:41:55  
I suppose -- we have a small one (1500 watts) in our laundry room, it has no visible elements. Had a furnace breakdown earlier this year and used it in the main part of the house. It would take a very large one to heat an area of any size. Also very expensive to operate in a large area. I have a 48000 BTU overhead natural gas furnace in my shop (30x30 work area), I simply turn it off when painting. But, I have explosion proof exhaust fans that I run when painting, they will evacuate the area rapidly, and lower the temperature about as fast. There is no real good answer for painting in freezing temperatures.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy