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Hey Animal; Here's some info that might help taken from the archives. You might do a search. The below is from a previous post by B-maniac who contributes frequently and is an experienced painter. It will give you something to think about. Come back with the type of paint your used. "First of all,did you use catylist in the paint? Does Nason have an acrylic enamel clear with catylist for use over that paint? Assuming the answers are yes,do you have access to the tech. data sheets for proper use of the system? You probably don't.I say that because any paints that I know of call for a wet on wet when you are clear coating. That's what ties the two together so the clear doesn't de-laminate from the color. It is very risky to sand your color after dry and apply clear. In metallics it will create a real mess.In solid colors it may work a little better but the smart thing to do would be to sand the surface,apply one coat of color and then,after it has flashed off for an hour(or what ever the directions say)apply the clear. If you sand on dry red paint,if you look real close you will see that that it will look orange where the grit of the paper makes small scratches.Red paint darkens as it drys and for some reason the underneath always stays a little more orange.You don't want to clear over that or it will be there forever.You won't see it unless you look close but it's there.Depends on how fussy you are....IF the paint and clear you are using ISN'T catylized,then don't bother with the clear,it won't help. If you want the wet look on uncatylized acrylic enamel,use the buffer once a year. You may want someone experienced in this to do it for you.Auto detailers do it on cars every day,check with them. Good Luck however you go. "
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