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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

body filler

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bobohio

03-19-2008 10:05:40




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I need your expertise! was reading the spec sheet for all of the Evercoat body filler/putties,and they all say not to use the fillers over a primer.To be used on bare metal.I know on this forum most all recommend priming first,and that is what I plan on doing with PPG MP170. It should be in Thursday. The supplier I am buying from has the Evercoat on their shelves. Should I be looking for a different brand or am I ok to go ahead?
Thanks for all your help..Bob

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JT

03-23-2008 15:57:01




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 Re: body filler in reply to bobohio, 03-19-2008 10:05:40  
I am repainting the hood, and tank on my tractor, one of my employees is an ex body man. This is what he told me. My paint is enamal and is 8 years old, we sanded with 180 grit, then filled with filler. He told me not to prime any of the bare steel where we were putting any kind of filler. the reason he said was the primer will take 24-48 hours or longer, depending on humidity to dry "properly" and if you put filler over uncured paint of any kind it will cause major problems, filler can lift, wrinkle, just make a mess. I primed a headlight ring last week, it had dried for 5 days, went to dry sand it, it still was not dry, was balling primer up real bad.
Jim

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B-maniac

03-23-2008 18:54:33




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 Re: body filler in reply to JT, 03-23-2008 15:57:01  
Sounds like we are all talking different decades of technologies here. Any primer that takes that long to cure is not worth useing , I don't care how cheap it is . If it "balls up" after 5 days then strip it off and use something else unless you have "forever" to finish the project. Primer/surfacer is for filling imperfections and must be sanded. No , you don't apply body filler over it. Catylized epoxy primer is for corrosion resistance and adhesion. It has no "filling" properties and can be coated with body filler. Do not sand epoxy primer accept to knock off nibs or if the re-coat window has been exceeded , then re-coat. It is a one-two coat only primer and is very thin so if you sand it you may go through to metal and that kind of defeats it's purpose. Most people don't have the time or patience to wait for primer to dry to apply filler so just skip that step , you probably would never see a difference either way. The collision repair industry is getting pretty fussy because the insurance companies are requiring "lifetime" guarantees on repairs and paint and that is why some of these products and procedures are used. Most are overkill for tractors etc.

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JT

03-24-2008 16:40:43




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 Re: body filler in reply to B-maniac, 03-23-2008 18:54:33  
Yep, I still do it the old way, 3-4 coats of primer, sand it, 3-4 more coats, sand, a couple more coats, then wet sand and paint. I use enamal paint and primer. I have a lot more patience than money, I am painting a tractor, not a 100 thousand dollar show car. the reason it was still filling sand paper or balling up was we had some high humidity last week, and humidity and enamal primer do not co-exist. Plus the shop was a little chilly, and that does not dry enamal primer well, either.
Jim

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CNKS

03-23-2008 17:13:06




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 Re: body filler in reply to JT, 03-23-2008 15:57:01  
I prefer body filler over bare metal, but as Rod says, if you use primer use epoxy. It cures very fast and is very hard. "Normal" primer, no. There is a difference. As to the 5 days, there are some really lousy primers on the market, particularly the farm store variaties.



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Rod (NH)

03-19-2008 15:28:03




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 Re: body filler in reply to bobohio, 03-19-2008 10:05:40  
Hi Bob,

It can be done either way. Many, perhaps most, prefer bare metal only, but it's not absolutely necessary. It's sort of like the epoxy vs. etch debate. I put Evercoat "Chrome-A-Lite" filler over the MP170 epoxy regularly without problems. I prefer it that way because that fits my situation and workflow better than the other way around. I would ONLY do that with an epoxy as the primer though. In fact the fillers that PPG markets themselves specifically indicate their epoxy primer (DPLF) is an acceptable substrate for their filler. The PPG website doesn't appear to be functioning properly right now or I would link to their filler tech sheet. Just keep your fills as thin as possible - try for nothing greater than 1/8" thick, no very large areas and scuff up the MP170 well with 80 grit or coarser. You won't have a problem.

Here's what Evercoat has to say about it in their FAQs:

"Q. Can Evercoat fillers be applied over bare metal? Can they be applied over paint? A. Our fillers are designed to work over bare, properly prepared substrates such as: steel, aluminum, galvanized, stainless steel, fiberglass, and SMC. Some people prefer applying an epoxy primer over bare substrates to enhance corrosion protection. Our products don’t need to be applied over an epoxy for corrosion protection as long as the bare surface area is clean and no surface rust or contamination is present. However, some auto manufacturers do require body technicians to coat the bare metal surface with an epoxy before applying fillers. If you are performing warranty work, you should consult the manufacturer of the automobile for the recommended procedure. Fillers and putties will normally work OK over properly sanded (80-180 grit) cured OEM paint. However, with so many different types of aftermarket paint available (lacquer, enamel, urethane, water-based). We recommend that all paint be removed where filler is to be applied."

Source url for above quote.

Rod

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B-maniac

03-19-2008 16:36:28




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 Re: body filler in reply to Rod (NH), 03-19-2008 15:28:03  
I agree with Rod. Either way is fine. Make sure the epoxy has cured completely (preferably overnight) In a production shop this is immpracticle and unprofitable. If it's a restoration then I would epoxy first. Body filler is porous and absorbs water and so does most primer/surfacer. Since wet sanding is a fast accurate way of achieving a perfect paint surface then the water could possibly get absorbed down to the bare steel without a layer of epoxy to prevent it resulting in possibility of rust showing up later down the line.To my knowlege body filler has no corrosian resistance itself.

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glennster

03-19-2008 10:32:07




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 Re: body filler in reply to bobohio, 03-19-2008 10:05:40  
your body filler needs to go on clean unprimed metal.



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