Learning to paint

I would like to start out with cast parts, small components and then when I have the hang of that can progress up to the sheet metal.

Questions: 1. What type of moderately priced paint gun can I buy, that I can use for small projects, and that is easily cleaned up?

2. I am planning on buying Case IH paint from the dealer. Should I buy enough to do the whole tractor so it is all the same lot#? Or do they even sell pints or quarts? Would you notice a difference between lot#'s ?

3. Would one gallon do the entire project?

4. Do you use a primer?

Thanks in advance.

Gene

I have about 4 more loads of old scrap metal to haul to help finance this project.

Gene

I'll relate my amature painting experiences as well.

1, I got a scrap pice of metal that I practiced on, and I also use to set my gun on every job. ( an old car hood from a junkyard is GREAT ).. I leave it leaned up against a free standing fence post.. i use it as my test shot area to check pattern, fluid and air settings on my guns.

I use all knock off guns.. binks.devblis ( spelling? ).. etc.

I have currently got a pressure pot gun, an hvlp, a full quart syphon gun, and a touch up syphon gun. I hear hvlp is all the rage... so far I like syphon the best.. It's what i started with, and have the most experience with... it is not the best technology.. as has bene pointed out. My guns are campbel hausfeld and harbor freight guns.. not one over 50$.. some as cheap as 10$. ( touch up gun ).

I use a 5hp, 29g compressor with built in regulator.. but started with a small 2hp/4g pancake compressor with an extra 15g tank plumbed in, and an external regulator. Made me learn patience! You will find reducing the paint is the big difference betweent he guns, as well as amount of material put down, and air used to do it. Syphon guns are generally air hogs, have the most overspray, and get less paint to project. taht said.. i find them pretty easy to use.. and pretty forgiving. No matter what you get.. clean them like you are going to operate with them.. when i'm done cleaning my guns i shoot straight reducer thru them to a white rag til there is no color, and that includes cleaning the tip and can as well.

DO use a primer compatible with your paint.

Most of the look of your finish will come from the prep work.. not the paint or the gun.

a 250$ gun, with 100$ a gallon paint shot on to 45$ worth of body work is gonna look like a 50$ paint job. VS 26$ a gallon paint shot thru a 25$ gun, onto 500$ of body work is gonna look like a 551$ paint job. Even if I buy paint at the same time.. i like to intermix my cans to make sure the lots are near the same when i go to use them... Thus I try to buy enough to do the entire tractor at one shot. If i get down to half a quart and 'know' I'll nee dmore.. I save that half quart till I get the next quart so i can mix it and again.. try to keep the color lot similar.

As for how much.. can't say without knowing what you are painting.

I just burned 5qts of primer on my ford 951 and fel. used a gallon of red or so, and half a gallon of white.

soundguy

• spray guns

2. 2150 comes in gallons and quarts, I don't use it, have heard that it is ok. I wouldn't worry about lot numbers, but mistakes are possible -- same with the better paint that is mixed, but mistakes are rare.

3. If you paint a lot of parts separately, about 1.5 gallons.

4. Definitely use a primer. You can use CaseIH if you want. You can also use epoxy primer, which will cost more than 2150. I also use a sandable surfacer over the epoxy for a smoother finish. Paint will highlight defects that you can't see in the old paint.