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Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A

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alabamafrog

05-15-2008 08:59:25




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Need some advice,

I have it back together and plan to paint it with the hood on,

I have washed it several times with oven cleaner and have 3/4 of it down to the metal.
Here is my plan so far;

1. power steel brush and sand

2. rinse off then coat with Phosphoric prep & etch, let dry 24 hours

3. light brush/sand then blow off with air and wipe off flat spots with cleaner

4. prime with epoxy gray

5. use body filler to fill small rust hole in hood and maybe smooth out some of the deeper pits

6. prime with surfacer

7. sand smooth and reprime if necessary

8. spray lights, manifold, muffler, axles, and front hitch with high temp black, let dry and cover

9. spray wheels with yellow enamel, let dry and cover

10. spray green base and clear, let dry a few days

11. Put any parts back on and place decals

12. see if she still runs!

PPG Paint list, it was $508 just for the green!;
1-JP202G primer surfacer

1-JH301-Q fast primer hardener
2-JP375Q epoxy primer gray

2-JH3770P epoxy primer hardener
1-MBCB-G Mixed color MBC-41374(B)
1-JR506-G Medium reducer
1-MX190G Cleaner
1-JC661G Hi-gloss multi-panel clear
2-JH6690Q Slow top coat hardener
Does that look about right, any thing I forgot?

Any suggestions, comments, guidance, criticism?

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alabamafrog

06-09-2008 06:57:32




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to alabamafrog, 05-15-2008 08:59:25  
I hauled my tractors to the paint store today and showed them the off color of the PPG shop line base clear. Without much fuss they refunded the money I spent on the paint. Nice guys to work with, now I just got to decide whether to leave it alone or sand and repaint it the right color. It looks pretty good and got a lot of attention at the local founder’s day show this weekend so I think I’ll leave it alone for now and put the money into the next tractor. I guess all is well that ends well.

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alabamafrog

05-26-2008 19:17:32




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to alabamafrog, 05-15-2008 08:59:25  
Here is a cell phone pic I took of it, I plan to take some real pics and put them on my photo website when I get off work this week.

third party image



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alabamafrog

05-26-2008 19:14:14




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to alabamafrog, 05-15-2008 08:59:25  
I decided to do the base clear option after reading a lot about it. I wanted to give it a try and see how it turned out, for the experience. This is the first tractor my family ever bought so I want to do the best job possible on it. From what I have read $508 for all the stuff I got is close to normal price. I got enough of everything to do two tractors. I wound up taking the surfacer and its supplies back because it was bad and got a $120 refund so that puts me at about $400.

I told them I wanted JOHN Deere classic green for the 47 A. They pulled out a paint book that had the same PPG code numbers that I saw on this site.
I don’t know what to do now, the tractor is pretty but is definitely not john deere classic green. It looks like it would be real hard to properly scuff all the clear coat in all the nooks and crannies and repaint the entire tractor again. I guess I’ll take the tractor by the PPG paint store and see what they have to say about it.

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PhilC

05-26-2008 06:56:26




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to alabamafrog, 05-15-2008 08:59:25  
Did you specify you wanted an exact color match when you bought your paint? Did the paint store request a sample part to ensure they mixed it right? If you specified you wanted an exact match, and the paint isn't, then you are due a refund. The only good thing about that is they should supply the paint/materials at no cost, but your labor to repaint won't be.

I can't help but ask, why did you decide to use this paint vs the enamels you've been happy with in the past? From your description, it sounds like the paint store "saw you coming". :( I can't believe they charged you that much for Omni, it wouldn't have cost a whole lot more to step up to their premium quality line.

A urethane paint system is a higher quality paint (although Omni is the economy line) for a tractor, but if it's a show tractor that will spend most of its time in a barn or garage then the advantages of urethane vs enamel really don't matter.

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alabamafrog

05-25-2008 20:49:42




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to alabamafrog, 05-15-2008 08:59:25  
Well the saga continues, I went to put the new steering wheel on today and noticed it was a completely different color. I gathered up some other parts and pictures and to my dismay I figured out my shinny new looking A is NOT classic green, it aint even new green. It’s more like crayola crayon green. Very pretty but wrong. What do I do now? I bet the first show I go to it will stick out like a sore thumb. This high dollar PPG Base/Clear paint thing is really not working out well for me. I got more than enough paint left over to do my next tractor but then I will have two wrong color tractors. Looks like when someone spends over $500 on paint they could get the color right, especially on the second try! What good are paint codes if they can’t mix it right.

Any suggestions as to how to handle this?

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alabamafrog

05-24-2008 18:56:55




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to alabamafrog, 05-15-2008 08:59:25  
Well I got here finished today, looks great, the Base clear is almost too pretty, doesn’t look real and shows every tiny imperfection. I had trouble with the PPG stuff, first the primer surfacer was thick as playdoe and would not mix. I took it back and while I was there another guy came in with the same problem. I got a $100 refund for it. Next I went to spray the Base and it was definitely not JD green. It was very dark and metallic looking. Had to take that back and get new base mixed. It was a real headache and I’m not sure the color is right now but it looks okay to my untrained eye. Total cost for paint and supplies was over $600. The last tractor I done with enamel and it was closer to $100 for everything. I do got enough base and clear left over to do another one but not sure if I want to use it or not. She is pretty now though and I hope she lasts for a couple more decades.
Thanks for all the help, I’ll post some pics when I get them.

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alabamafrog

05-23-2008 08:20:13




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to alabamafrog, 05-15-2008 08:59:25  
I believe I have about decided to skip the surfacer. I already got small spot of bondo done and the epoxy primer on and the wheels painted yellow with enamel. After they dry I plan to spray the base and clear over the epoxy primer and call it done. That is if the weather will cooperate.



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alabamafrog

05-20-2008 13:51:14




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to alabamafrog, 05-15-2008 08:59:25  
I got one more quick question;

I need to use body filler, or bondo, to fill in the small hole in the hood and help level out some of the deeper rust pits in the hood. Is it okay to put it on after the wire brushing and sanding and before the phosphoric prep and the first coat of epoxy? If not, when is the best time in the painting sequence to apply bondo?

Any other advice before I get started?

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GordoSD

05-22-2008 09:07:26




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to alabamafrog, 05-20-2008 13:51:14  
Do the body work with bondo after the epoxy primer, and before the surfacer.

Gordo



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alabamafrog

05-17-2008 06:18:09




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to alabamafrog, 05-15-2008 08:59:25  
I did my MT with parts store enamel, it looked pretty good, I should have done more prep work on it. Only base and clear I ever did was my boat motor hood, it looked great. I've painted many bobcat, forklifts, equipment etc with enamel. Haven't done a car or real show quality anything yet. Trying to learn and try something new, probably wont spend that much on the next one, depends on how this one turns out. I painted the MT for less than $100.

I really appreciate all of the advice so far,

SV

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alabamafrog

05-16-2008 07:23:06




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to alabamafrog, 05-15-2008 08:59:25  
Thanks for all the help so far,

Those numbers are the shop line, the guy at the PPG store said it was the same as omni but better.

I have already bought all the listed stuff.

Anyone see any problem with prime and surfacing everything with that stuff and then painting the wheels with yellow enamel, covering them then painting the green base/clear?



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Mike S 806/H

05-16-2008 16:47:37




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to alabamafrog, 05-16-2008 07:23:06  
Have you ever painted before? if not thats alot money for a first time paint job. The JD paints do work good I have painted my G and 70 with it, they both are show quality paint jobs, I used hardener with it, and you can clear if you want, I never have, but I have friends that did, my G has been painted for about 8 years now and still shines like new, probley have about $120.00 in paint, primer, reducer and hardener,

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CNKS

05-16-2008 14:03:34




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to alabamafrog, 05-16-2008 07:23:06  
I believe the Shopline IS Omni, something about being sold only by Platinum? dealers. I think the mixing instructions are the same -- only a sales pitch. You can cover the wheels if you want. I would recommend waiting until the next day to topcoat, just to be sure your masking doesn't find a wet place.



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CNKS

05-16-2008 14:18:46




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to CNKS, 05-16-2008 14:03:34  
One other thing. If you want a better job, paint the sheet metal separately, along with any other easily removeable parts. I'm not familiar with how the hood, etc attaches on a JD, but you can always touch up bolts with a small brush. You need to paint everything with the gun at the proper angle, hard to do on a tractor. You will also get overspray on parts you have just painted. You paid $500+ for Shopline JD green paint?? Did that include the clear? Are you using MBC on other parts beside the sheet metal? I don't think I would do that. Single stage (provided you can get the correct match)is fine for everything else. Price must have more than doubled in the past couple of years.

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CNKS

05-15-2008 14:08:01




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to alabamafrog, 05-15-2008 08:59:25  
I'm not going through your whole list and check numbers, etc. You can save a lot of money by using PPG Omni, and likely never know the difference. Or perhaps those are Shopline? numbers, if so it is the same as Omni. Skip the MX 190 and use DX 330 wax and grease remover, I believe it is cheaper and should be fully compatible with what you are using. Use the 330 (multiple applications) between 1 and 2. There is no drying period, as it evaporates fast. But you want to wipe it off before it evaporates. Only other comment I have is #2. Skip the etch on cast, very well might not cause a problem, but cast is pourous, and can bleed out and lift the paint.

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CNKS

05-15-2008 14:16:41




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to CNKS, 05-15-2008 14:08:01  
I overlooked #3 -- as Pat said, clean that surface good. You need it CLEAN-- use wax and grease remover, then the tack cloth immediately before painting. All the air will do is redistribute the dust, and stir up any other dust in your painting area. As to the buff primer, if you are using quality paint, and put on at least 3 coats, the primer color makes no difference. Your surfacer is likely tan or some similar color anyway. I personally like contrasting primer color, because it is easier to see if I have good coverage.

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alabamafrog

05-15-2008 11:47:51




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to alabamafrog, 05-15-2008 08:59:25  
Excuse my ignorance when it comes to painting but what is buff primer color?



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patsdeere

05-15-2008 09:38:51




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 Re: Getting ready to paint my 1937 JD A in reply to alabamafrog, 05-15-2008 08:59:25  
I would consider using a buff primer color. I didn't on mine and it just doesn't quite have the same pop that ones that used the buff primer. I know some say it doesn't matter, but I think it does. However, it doesn't matter to you, then that is okay since it is yours. Right before color I would wipe down with a tack cloth as blowing it doesn't always get all the dust off.

Oh, be careful when using the hardener, it isn't a good thing to breathe.

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