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Need to do a re-paint

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Lorin

09-15-2002 10:42:32




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I just purchased a 1938 Graham Bradley which was supposed to be restored but I am not satisfied with the paint on it. It appears like a rush job.
The sheet metal, infact all of the metal shows rust pits in the paint. In the past I have restored five tractors which were rough and we sand blasted them and used crack filler primer and closed all of the rust pits before applying the paint. We ended up with five excellently finished units.

My question is, can I rough sand this tractor and apply crack filler primer until I have filled all the pits, fine sand it and then re-paint it and end up with a superior paint job. I have never done one in this manner before and I don't know if it will be acceptable or not. You painting experts let me know if this will work or be a disaster.

Thanks,

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bill

09-19-2002 05:46:46




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 Re: Need to do a re-paint in reply to Lorin, 09-15-2002 10:42:32  
i would agree with all of the post before. not only deal with the rust, but fill the pits with firbergalss resin. SUV/ATV resin is flexible and can take vibrations better. Get it at auto stores. Spread a thin full coat on effected areas. Make sure it is fully cured and then some, and start with 100 grit sandpaper paper and work up to 150/220 paper to smooth and fill the pitting. I do it all of the time with VERY good results.

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tom

09-19-2002 03:59:24




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 Re: Need to do a re-paint in reply to Lorin, 09-15-2002 10:42:32  
CHeck out the good answer below. Test the paint with the type of paint you plan to use and see if it will adhere or lift off the existing paint.

BUT, the primary concern is the rust showing underneath and coming through the paint.

That rust must be dealt with if you want to do it right.

My advice....and you know it as well as anyone else is to strip off the old paint, neutralize the rust after with zinc phosphate after, wire brushing or sandblasting, prime it correctly and paint it with a top notch enamel.

Rust never sleeps even under a blanket of fresh primer and paint.

I went through the same thing recently on a Farmall A. The young man had great intentions and for his experience level did as good as he could do when he said it was restored. But, the paint was a spray on rattle can job and the rust wasn't dealt with and the underside wasn't completed so...I stripped it and re-did the whole thing.

Oh well. So it goes in this tracotr hobby business. If you want it done right, ya got to do it yourself to your standards. good luck.

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tom

09-19-2002 03:58:21




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 Re: Need to do a re-paint in reply to Lorin, 09-15-2002 10:42:32  
CHeck out the good answer below. Test the paint with the type of paint you plan to use and see if it will adhere or lift off the existing paint.

BUT, the primary concern is the rust showing underneath and coming through the paint.

That rust must be dealt with if you want to do it right.

My advice....and you know it as well as anyone else is to strip off the old paint, neutralize the rust after with zinc phosphate after, wire brushing or sandblasting, prime it correctly and paint it with a top notch enamel.

Rust never sleeps even under a blanket of fresh primer and paint.

I went through the same thing recently on a Farmall A. The young man had great intentions and for his experience level did as good as he could do when he said it was restored. But, the paint was a spray on rattle can job and the rust wasn't dealt with and the underside wasn't completed so...I stripped it and re-did the whole thing.

Oh well. So it goes in this tracotr hobby business. If you want it done right, ya got to do it yourself to your standards. good luck.

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Jerry B

09-17-2002 06:42:32




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 Re: Need to do a re-paint in reply to Lorin, 09-15-2002 10:42:32  
Wheather or not this will work depends on several factors:
1. What brand/type paint was used for the first job.
2. Was it catalized? (hardener added)
3. How long ago was it painted?
4. What brand paint you intend to use.
5. What surface preparation was done previously.

If the present paint is activated acylic enamel or single stage urethane, then you should be fine with a another paint job on top. However, synthetic enamel will not lend itself to putting a different type of paint over the top. Hardeners have a tendancey to lift under coats.

If the surface of the metal was cleaned with a wire brush to remove the rust, sandblasted or electricaly de-rusted, then the top coats should be tight enough to help resist solvents and hardeners. If there is still rust in the pits, then you are going to have trouble later on down the road.

From the way you describe the sheet meatl I am doubting the previous painter took much pains to get a correctly prepaired surface.

You could try your approach and see what happens. The worst thing that could happen is that you get to remove your paint as well as the previous paint.

Before doing anything I would take a razor blade and shave off the paint in an inconspicuos place to see what is under it. If all looks good then chances are it is good. If you see no self-etching primer with primer filler over that, then you might as well count on stripping it all.

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