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First you will need a paint nib or file. This removes the large, hard knots caused from dirt and debris in the paint. It will remove the top surface and make it level with the surrounding area. Don't over do it. After all, this thing is a file and will cut until you stop moving it. Wipe the surface down with a wet rag to remove left over grit, ect. Now you get to sand. If you choose to color sand by hand by all means use a sanding block, plenty of water, and a squigee to keep the surface clean. Any dirt under the paper will cause scratches in your fresh paint. A little liquid detergent (1-2 tea spoon per bucket) will make the water stay on the surface better, clean the sandpaper better by prevent paint build up in the grains of the paper, and float the sanding residue off better than just plain water. If you use a DA sander you will want to run it slow, slow, slow. That thing cuts fast on soft paint and you will ruin the job before you know it. (been there, done that) Sanding should be done it stages. I start with 1000-1200 grit (depending on how hard the paint is) and proceed to 1500 and finally 1800 grit. Sometimes you can stop at 1500 and then buff the paint, other times you will need to go to 1800. Use plenty of soapy water to lubricate the sanding operation. (Yes You might get a little damp around the edges but that is ok!) Be careful of WHERE you sand also. This is where most beginners make their biggest mistake. DO NOT SAND SHARP EDGES, IN GROOVES OR AROUND CREASES or within 1 inch of ANY EDGE. The reason for this is that when you buff these areas you run the very high risk of burning the paint with the buffer and that means repainting. Sand only enough to remove imperfections and orange peel. As far as buffing goes, you will need a variable speed buffer with velcro mounting pad on which to place the buffing pad. You will need at least 1 coarse buff and one fine buff. The coarse buff is used first with the heavey duty buffing compound and the fine buff of course is used with the finer compound. Word of caution here also. Don't get them or the coumpounds mixed up. You don't want the course compound cutting on the final finish. Start with slow speed on the compound and as the pad becomes filled and the paint becomes covered with the compound you can increase speed. Do not buff at high speeds with the course compound as it cuts faster than you think. Do not buff near the edges of a panel. The buffer will snag the panel. It might only burn the paint off but I have launched a piece of sheet metal across the shop before and that can ruin your day real fast. When buffing near an edge, run the pas so that the cutting edge is running off over the edge, not up and toward it. This is why you don't sand very close to the edges to start with: you are flirting with disater by buffing in that area and all areas that are sanded have to be buffed.
A beginner should always ask themselves " Can I buff here?" If the answer is no, then by all means do not sand there. my 2 cents worth Keep and old screw driver handy to clean the buffing pad with. After buffing an area about a foot square look at the pad. It will be caked with drying compound. This has to be removed. Just turn the buffer over and while it runs, draw the screw driver from the center out and this will loosen and fling off the old used compound. Make sure you don't fling it back onto the paint youi are bufing also.
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