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Anyone successfully used a clearcoat over spray can enamel?

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Truck

03-12-2003 10:44:56

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Got a working tractor I want to experiment with clearcoat on. It's had a decent rattlecan job with rustoleum, including primer over wirewheeled and blasted surfaces. Had it all been done at one time it would have been done with real paint, but you know how projects go. I was wondering if anyone out there had had any success with any type of clearcoat over rattle can synthetic enamel. I'm looking to keep the shine a little longer than six months, if possible.Thanks!
Truck

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Glenn Ayers

03-22-2003 20:21:50

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Re: Anyone successfully used a clearcoat over spray can enamel? in reply to Truck, 03-12-2003 10:44:56

I was sure hoping someone would answer this for ya Truck. I'm doing the same thing (spray cans)to my crawler. Not enough garage space to hang it all up & paint it at once ... & I want to make sure ALL sides of each piece gets painted.
Sure would be nice to know that I could clear coat it all when I'm done ... or maybe even give the completly assembled tractor one last coat of acrylic enamel with hardener. I Sure would get PO'ed if I shot one last coat of GOOD paint & it all lifted.
~Glenn

T-340 Site

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J.Rose

07-03-2003 20:43:20

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Re: Re: Anyone successfully used a clearcoat over in reply to Glenn Ayers, 03-22-2003 20:21:50

I am experimenting with clear coats and ecthing primers on aluminum and steel bike frames. My experience with a coat or two of acrylic enamel clear coat over store bought enamel paint has been wonderful. The acrylic enamel gave it an almost professional finish. It held up to abuses. Now with clear coat from an auto paint supply store that is something different entirely. The shop owner told me that he was not sure if the cans of professional auto clear coat I purchased from him would bond to the store bought enamel paints. The reason being that the store bought enamel paint has a good amount of solvents in it, which would hinder adhesion of a clear coat. Now, however when enamel cures(which takes a 4-6 weeks) my thought would be that the solvents would have evaporated in the process of curing. I say that because most of the solvents in store bought enamels are cleaning solvents such as acetone and tulyne all of which evaporate. There might be some other reacting agents in the paints as well. But again those probably have some kind of "processing" life to them and might not reactivate once you spray clear coat over it causing "lifting". Remember the curing time is the key. Wait the proper 4-6 week time between paint and clear coat and most of the solvents would have passed through causing a nice hard finish to clear coat over. My thoery about the solvents and agents is only a theory and theories are alot like opinions. But it's a good place to start with the company you buy the paint from. Call Rustoleum. Most of my paint work I like to use Rustoleum's "Painters Touch" brand. It goes on with a nice coat and you have to try really hard to cause any dripping it also works well with the clear acrylic enamal. It's held up like a good car finish. If you really are interest in doing a top notch job I suggest you look at Dupont's "Imron" paint, available at an auto finish company. It comes in a 2 part combined system (clear coat/paint color) and can be sprayed with a $60.00 HVLP (high velocity/low pressure) spray gun that you can get at a hardware store. I have been told that you can air dry with this paint. I takes about a 4-6 weeks to cure fully by air drying. I am pretty sur that "Imron" will dry to the touch in a short time for use, but actual curing time for complete cure is 4-6 weeks. Imron is great in that it's a 2 part finish. You spray it on and you get your paint color and clear coat all in one. It's a little expensive at $70.00 a quart, but in the long run it's worth it.

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Glenn Ayers

03-22-2003 20:16:47

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Re: Anyone successfully used a clearcoat over spray can enamel? in reply to Truck, 03-12-2003 10:44:56

T-340 Site

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