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JD Paint Instructions

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Mark

05-04-2003 12:41:32




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I am spraying the JD Classic Green paint from John Deere over their Buff Sealer-Primer. Their green can says... Apply in light mist coats. Allow to become tacky between coats. When top coat becomes tack free, allow 36 hours before recoat. Excessively heavy wet coats may wrinkle during drying...

What is the soonest and latest I can spray the green over the buff primer without scuffing the primer down. Is it better to let the primer dry for several days and scuff or lay down the green within 24 hours (without scuffing?) On the green, the instructions leave me wondering... Roughly how long do I have to get on each additional mist coat before the "tack free" condition would occur that would make me need to wait 36 hours? How long should I wait between mist coats to avoid any problems with wrinkle. I would like to paint all the green in one day if this is possible and without scuffing. Anybody used these paints successfully that could give me advice?

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JDBob

05-12-2003 13:05:54




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 Re: JD Paint Instructions in reply to Mark, 05-04-2003 12:41:32  
Mark,
The other guys have gave you some great advice.
The only thing I might add to it is that if you decide to go ahead and use the JD Synthetic Enamel paint "Classic Green" go ahead and spend a few extra bucks and go to NAPA and get a can of hardner, the part# is "8010 Synthol Hardner".
It's not hard to mix up or use, just put about a cap full per spray cup of paint. This will give a MUCH better shine from the JD paint, and make it more durable. I've painted with the JD Classic green for quite while using hardner and have been very pleased with the results. It will have a nice shine when your done. Just remember what Gary and Jerry B said, take you time and don't rush it. My first coat of green is usually just enough to tell it's green, then a little heavier getting a fairly good cover on the second coat, then a good wet final coat. Give it plenty of time between coats and you'll be fine. With a little practice with the JD paint you can turn out a fine looking tractor.

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Jerry B

05-06-2003 05:56:33




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 Re: JD Paint Instructions in reply to Mark, 05-04-2003 12:41:32  
Sounds like Deere is still using synthetic enamel. We see wrinkles appear if sythetic enamel is applied too thick, too fast. Acrylic enamel or urethanes will not wrinkle if applied too thick. They just run.

You would think Deere would have changed paint formulas by now.



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Mark

05-07-2003 03:47:47




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 Re: Re: JD Paint Instructions in reply to Jerry B, 05-06-2003 05:56:33  
Thanks for the feedback. A local guy I met told me he used the JD paint and it looked great until he applied the second coat and then the disaster occured. The JD can lists Soya Alkyd Resin. So I think its the old alkyd resin paint, is that the same as synthetic enamal? I have little experience spraying and don't really want to get into the hardeners so I thought the JD paint was a good choice but the thought of wrinkles... If I changed the plan now and went with an acrylic enamal without hardener over the JD buff sealer primer would I be looking for a different kind of trouble or would that be a better route?

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Jerry B

05-07-2003 09:17:41




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 Re: Re: Re: JD Paint Instructions in reply to Mark, 05-07-2003 03:47:47  
Almost anything is better than synthetic enamel. Try a Base coat-Clear coat approach if your wallet can stand it. The base color goes on like primer. No shine, no gloss, just color. Two medium coats and you are done. If you get a run, wait 30 minutes, wet sand the area to remove the run, then shoot the area again. Can't tell you had a problem. Then spray the clear. The clear brings out the shine and protects the base coat.

If you are unsure of your abilities don't feel left out. We all started with no experience but this is the only way to learn.

You really should use a hardener in acrylic enamel. There are several reason why. Faster drying, higher gloss, tougher finish, less chance of a run, and if you do get a run you can nib it off, sand and buff it out in a matter of a day or so rather than the week or more required for non-catalized paint. If you are going to use Dupont paint and want to try some sweet spraying paint, try Imron. It is an acrylic urethane and has excellent spraying properties. Goes on good and shines easier with less paint needing to be applied. Doesn't run as quickly as other paints either.

Nason sprays good and cost about 2/3 of what other types of paint costs and has good results.

I have used Chroma One and I have to admit I like it. Some don't. I use the Highest grade of hardener Dupont makes for mixing and I have had great results.

A couple of things a beginner should keep in mind: 1)Don't get in a hurry. A tractor will take the better part of a day to paint so don't try to finish it between coffee breaks. Let the coats of paint tack up before spraying the next coat. How do you know if it is tacky enough? Easy. Wait about 30 minutes and touch a part of the tractor you have cover with masking tape with your CLEAN finger. If you get wet paint on your finger tip and strings of paint following your finger then things are still too wet. If you leave a wet finger print in the surface but remove very little or no paint, you are ready to spray the next coat. I painted my 1966 Chrysler 300 a few years ago and I started at 6 AM. I had already painted under the hood, trunk and door jambs. It was already masked, washed, dried and tacked. All I had to do was paint the outside. Three coats of paint later I left at 4 PM to let everything dry.

2)Single, light coats of paint don't shine but you can't spray all the paint at once. Let the coats build up the thickness and the shine over a period of 2 or 3 coats of paint.

3)If you have yet to buy a gun I suggest buying a decent gravity fed gun. HVLP if you want to. But I haven't had much luck with HVLP as of yet.

4)Wear a respirator not a dust mask. It is a life saver. (not the candy either!)

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GARY

05-04-2003 15:01:51




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 Re: JD Paint Instructions in reply to Mark, 05-04-2003 12:41:32  
Lightly sand the buff,sheet metal is the most important. Then you can apply the green whenever you like. If you are using hardener most do, then apply a light coat, then wait around 20 - 30 min.depending on temp and humidity before applying the 2nd coat which I apply somewhat heavier. Wait another 20-30 min. before applying the 3rd coat which is usually my final coat. I have seen the wrinkling with Deere paint when trying to apply all the paint at one time with too heavy a coat and it is not pretty! The time starts when you begin painting. If it takes a 1/2 hr.or longer front to back to paint(complete tractor). Then you need to begin the 2nd coat right away or soon as possible. Tractors are tough to paint when done right with so many hard to reach places. Just don't try to apply it all in one coat and you will be alright!!!!! Have fun

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