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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Painting Wheels/Using Hardener

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Dan in ore

09-19-2003 07:54:26




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This is a two part question.

If I paint my Case CC and my Farmall F-12 gray (as I believe they are supposed to be) do I paint the wheels gray or red?

If I use hardener in the paint do I use it on all coats or just the top one or two.

All responses are appreiated.

Dan




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CNKS

09-19-2003 20:07:43




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 Re: Painting Wheels/Using Hardener in reply to Dan in ore, 09-19-2003 07:54:26  
I am only familiar with the Farmall letter series, so I can't answer your first question, ask on the Case and Farmall boards and someone will answer. Hardener goes in all coats. Do not use hardener unless you have a supplied air system, a twin cartridge mast will not protect your lungs from isos. Much info in the archives about this.



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Bill Hires

09-19-2003 14:59:04




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 Re: Painting Wheels/Using Hardener in reply to Dan in ore, 09-19-2003 07:54:26  
The wheels on both tractors are red. I apply hardener only in the last coat.



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CNKS

09-19-2003 20:09:07




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 Re: Re: Painting Wheels/Using Hardener in reply to Bill Hires, 09-19-2003 14:59:04  
Why only the last coat?



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Bill Hires

09-20-2003 04:57:51




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 Re: Re: Re: Painting Wheels/Using Hardener in reply to CNKS, 09-19-2003 20:09:07  
I do not like to use hardener for all the reasons you stated! When I do, I have success using it on the last coat. There are too many safety rules broken by painters that will cause problems later in their life!



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CNKS

09-20-2003 08:35:23




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Painting Wheels/Using Hardener in reply to Bill Hires, 09-20-2003 04:57:51  
Whatever works for you. I have spent more time reading about paint and consulting with those who have a lot of experience than I have painting. I believe in doing everything I can to get it right the first time. It takes me literally months to prepare a tractor for painting, which includes removing all old paint and rust, removing all parts that will come off, and replacing all seals and gaskets that I think will leak, including those that probably won't. After all those months it only takes a few minutes to paint (not including sanding primer between coats, etc). I don't try any shortcuts because if I use quality paint, I believe the manufacturer knows more about the paint than I do, and after all that time I darn sure don't want to do it again. I don't have much confidence in the manufacturers of "farm store paint". I follow the paint manufacturers recommendations and do not experiment, which has worked for me so far. Thus, I have not tried hardener in only the final coat, but my understanding is that is more potential for lifting. The reaction between the paint and hardener is a chemical one, while the reaction of curing underneath the final coat is more mechanical (solvent evaporation). Since there is bonding between the early coats and the last one, I suppose there is is some reaction of the hardener with the lower layers (this statement is a flat out guess). A supplied air system will virtually eliminate the potential for health problems. It is a large upfront expense, but well worth it in the long run.

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