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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

full paint instructions

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SuperC

09-19-2003 14:07:36

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how much rust do i have to remove? or can i just seal it in with a primer, and what primer to use? after i prime and paint is there an extra paint protector?

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CNKS

09-20-2003 13:15:13

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Re: full paint instructions in reply to SuperC, 09-19-2003 14:07:36

This is a related question that perhaps should be under a new heading. But, how do you guys clean cast iron, I mean after the rust and paint are removed? I have tried oven cleaner, soap, water, paint thinner, wax and grease remover, and every combination of whatever I can think of. When mostly clean, I use a rust inhibitor before painting. The rust inhibitor itself then reacts with the metal, causing more glop. Prior to all this I use oven cleaner and pressure wash before I move the tractor inside. Then because I strip the tractor of the distrubuter, carb, governor, etc, I can no longer use the pressure washer. (My shop doesn't have a drain). I like to clean until the last rag comes clean. Next to impossible because the cast is pourus (sp?). Any ideas, or am I trying to get it too squeaky clean?

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Gene B

09-20-2003 16:41:52

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Re: Re: full paint instructions in reply to CNKS, 09-20-2003 13:15:13

Hi CNKS
I have the advantage of a diesel fired pressure washer 1500psi/3gpm I would not refinish tractors without it as I consider it the most important tool in the shop for this kind of work. I use an excellent soap that I get locally and of course liberal coatings of oven cleaner to get the diesel crust off the chassis and engine. The combo of high heat, detergents and high pressure does the job. Hand sand with 180 grit to remove any flash rust and for a general smoothdown. Final wipedown with good quality laquer thinner, tack rag and that should do it.
The tractors I do get no less than 4 washes throught the process as I always find something I missed.
If you don't have any reservations about eating grits off of it then it should be clean enough. : )

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CNKS

09-20-2003 18:17:38

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Re: Re: Re: full paint instructions in reply to Gene B, 09-20-2003 16:41:52

Thanks. I do need a better pressure washer, but, after all the visible stuff is off, there is the invisible stuff hidden in the pores. Steam or very hot water would probably take care of it. The cast looks very clean when I'm done, but it isn't.

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Gene B

09-19-2003 23:31:32

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Re: full paint instructions in reply to SuperC, 09-19-2003 14:07:36

I agree with Rod, on sheet metal you must remove as must rust as possible. 80 grit and a DA works best. Sand it down until there is no rust left except for the usual heavy pitting and staining. This takes a while and you have stay with it. Use oven cleaner then scuff pad and hot water pressure wash to clean the steel and remove a lot of the rust stains and surface contaminants. Of course use rubber gloves and a mask when you do this. Air dry, wipe down with laquer thinner then tack rag it. Fill the pitting with body filler or spot putty depending on the area affected and resand the whole piece with 180 grit until it's correct. For these older tractors it's best to use an epoxy primer because of it's durability. After drying, wet sand the primer with 600 grit, rewash/dry/tack rag and your ready to spray. Remember, cleanliness is a big part of having a paint job that will stick and last.

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Rod (NH)

09-19-2003 20:30:21

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Re: full paint instructions in reply to SuperC, 09-19-2003 14:07:36

Hi SuperC,

If you are going to remove rust, you need to remove it ALL. Don't try and seal it with a primer. It won't last. There is really no quick fix here. About the only thing I could recommend if you can't remove all the rust is to get the loose stuff off by wire brushing and use a dedicated product such as Permatex Extend Rust Treatment.

After painting use a standard car wax or polish. If you use an enamel without hardener I would wait about six months for the paint film to fully cure before doing that.

Rod

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Gene B

09-19-2003 23:44:13

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Re: Re: full paint instructions in reply to Rod (NH), 09-19-2003 20:30:21

p.s.
Sanding could take a really really really long time if it's a CASE hood lol. Case hoods/fenders are made from some of the toughest steel I have ever seen. Must have a high nickel content or something because it's tough like stainless steel or inconel. You'll go through sandpaper like crap through a goose trying to sand a case hood or fenders down. I charge extra for cases because I know I'm in for a fight lol.

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