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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Paint Strategy

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Joe

10-17-2003 08:37:11




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I want to repaint all of the sheetmetal on our JD 430 L&G. It is only 20 years old and most of the paint is still good, but I want to repaint to prevent rust in spots where it is worn down. I figure it is only a handful of parts so might as well redo the whole thing.

Never done this before, questions:

1) Can I just sand it down really smooth and use JD spray paint cans? Primer then top coat?

2) Can I get professional results doing it with spray cans?

3) If I opt to have a body shop do the painting can I at least get the pieces primed with a couple of cans of spray primer.

4) If I go the body shop route. What things should I tell them to do. What kind of paint? Clearcoat?

5) What do I do about the fact that the hood on this tractor is plastic? How do I prep/paint that?


I havea book on restoring JDs and it tells you all the steps to prepare metal for paint, but I don't want to have to buy a compressor and spray equip to do this, but I do want the results to be sharp.

Thanks in advance,
Joe

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CNKS

10-17-2003 18:56:34




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 Re: Paint Strategy in reply to Joe, 10-17-2003 08:37:11  
You want it to look sharp, as you say? I have no argument with those who say otherwise, but if you want it sharp the answer to your 1st 3 questions is no. If you have it painted: The body shop will not guarantee their work if you make them paint over spray can primer. The metal parts can be sanded, wire brushed, or even sandblasted clean. If you keep it dry you can use a rust converter/preventative on the cast and other metal parts that will keep rust away until it is painted. If you have a lot of time you can do this part yourself and save some money, as most of the expense is in the preparation. The plastic hood is easy, since it doesn't rust. Just sand it off. If a body shop does it, the minimum quality is epoxy primer followed by acrylic enamel with hardener, or acrylic urethane single stage. The procedure for the plastic hood may be different, just leave it up to them. BC/CC may look a little better, but really isn't necessary.

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CNKS

10-17-2003 19:08:32




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 Re: Re: Paint Strategy in reply to CNKS, 10-17-2003 18:56:34  
I didn't pay any attention to what you were painting -- You said L&G. A 430 is small compared to a regular tractor. The whole thing is other than the frame is plastic, isn't it? Pull the hood, fenders, etc off, sand it down to bare plastic -- ask your bodyshop what they are using for paint, and follow their recommendations for the grade of sandpaper to use. If you want you can take the wheels and tires off and use spray cans, or let them do it. The axle can be painted with a good quality spray can paint, as can the frame, if you want to go that far. This type situation is the ONLY time I would ever say to use spray cans, a gun is still better, but if you keep the thing inside GOOD quality spray paint will last several years. Get the hood, fenders professionally done, that is what shows.

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Joe

10-20-2003 07:15:27




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 Re: Re: Re: Paint Strategy in reply to CNKS, 10-17-2003 19:08:32  
Yes, there is not much sheet metal on this little tractor. The hood is plastic and beside the fenders there are only 4 or 5 other pieces of sheetmetal.

I think I will prep the metal and hood like you say and send it out for paint. I'll just touch up the frame with some flat black rustoleum.

Thanks for the advice. I was hoping that the John Deere spray paint might be reasonable quality, but I would rather have it done right.

Is there a number of coats of paint I should ask the body shop to do? We store it inside, but we do use it heavily.

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CNKS

10-20-2003 18:21:10




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Paint Strategy in reply to Joe, 10-20-2003 07:15:27  
As to the number of coats, that is the bodyshop's call. The best paint job is the thinner one. takes me 3 coats.



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