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PPG primer question

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Paul (C IL)

11-27-2003 20:44:18




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Went into local paint supplier this week and explained I wanted to paint the cast iron part of a Ford tractor red. That from my research I had pretty much decided on some type of acrylic enamel, without a hardner (due to health concerns).

This happened to be a PPG dealer. From reading here I had assumed (perhaps wrongly) that PPG acrylic enamel would be Omni. After discussion at the shop and looking at color chips we decided on a color 71969 Ford New Tractor Red. The price for this was $62/qt. That was somwhat higher than I was expecting PPG Omni to be but I was getting a lot of my beginner questions answered so I suspect this shop may have a higher than normal markup.

Then the discussion turned to primers. What they ended up recommending was Kondar DZ7 primer. I purchased a quart of this, but now am having concerns.

I looked at PPG's website and found their P-133 document>Link

I was hoping to start priming a couple of small pieces this weekend, but I want to be sure that this primer will be compatible with an acrylic enamel color coat. The shop is closed for the Thanksgiving holiday, so perhaps I should hold off on starting until I can get back in touch with them.

I have read much here about Omni, but little about Delstar. If someone has knowledge of both, I would like to hear a comparison. Also I want to be sure that the Kondar DZ7 primer is satisfactory for my application.

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partsguy

01-09-2004 21:42:23




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 Re: PPG primer question in reply to Paul (C IL), 11-27-2003 20:44:18  
hey rod, give us a break!!!!! !!!!do you work in a parts store?i have for over 25 years..i have had guys like you ask my advice on a part, not take my advice, replace something else which did not correct the problem, and come in later wanting my advice. i bet you haven't really bought much paint over the years. i have sold rinshed mason(rm) dupont, ppg, and omni. red is always a more expensive color than black, white, or green. delstar is not a cheap paint.the dz3 and dz7 does sell for 35.00 a quart. that is why so many people are going with the omni products today. omni has absolutely no guarantee and is also a lot thinner than a comparable product such as deltron or concept 2000. "take what the partsguy says with a grain of salt", huh? hope you don't come into my store....partsguy

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Dare

12-10-2003 14:29:46




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 Re: PPG primer question in reply to Paul (C IL), 11-27-2003 20:44:18  
Paul,
I am a rep for PPG Automotive paint. Have you figured out enough answers to your questions? If you have more, I would like to help out. Let me know.

Dare
darefrost@ppg.com



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Gary

11-27-2003 22:01:47




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 Re: PPG primer question in reply to Paul (C IL), 11-27-2003 20:44:18  
Omni is just a cheaper line of paint, Which I have used alot. As far as the primer he gave you that is not a sealer. Before you paint use DP-50. Konder is used as a sandable primer and is also known to shrink after a short period of time.Kondar will pull the shine if you dont sand it smooth, but I still recommend sealing your primer. I would also start looking for a different paint store because you got robbed. I have paid $60.00 dollars for a gallon of enamel and the hardener.

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Rod (NH)

11-27-2003 22:47:20




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 Re: Re: PPG primer question in reply to Gary, 11-27-2003 22:01:47  
OOPS!

Sorry Gary. I meant the response to be for Paul.



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Rod (NH)

11-27-2003 22:42:28




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 Re: Re: PPG primer question in reply to Gary, 11-27-2003 22:01:47  
Hi Paul,

$62/qt? That's a ridiculous price for any acrylic enamel. I suppose it could be Delstar but I thought PPG had discontinued that in recent years (even though they still show it on their website). I have used a lot of it in the past and consider it an outstanding AE. I haven't been able to get any of it locally for quite a while because the dealers in my area are no longer maintaining the mix colors to support it. They mostly supply the autobody trades and AE has been out of favor with them for the past decade, having been taken over by basecoat/clearcoat urethane. It would not be economical for them to maintain both a high end (Delstar) and low end (OMNI MAE) mix colors in acrylic enamel. They wouldn't sell much of the Delstar.

OMNI is a cost effective paint line taken over by PPG to support the low end of the automotive refinish market. Mostly for overalls and not repair work. You will not find any cross referencing between PPG's OMNI line and PPG's main line of higher end products such as Deltron, Concept, Global and Delstar, if they still market it. They are two totally separate paint lines, each with its own primers, reducers, hardeners, etc. A similar situation exists with DuPont having their "economy" line called NASON.

In my opinion, if you can get Delstar you will have the best AE available (arguably better than DuPont's Centari). It will cost more than OMNI MAE. The last time I bought OMNI MAE, a year and a half ago, it was about $50 per GALLON, not including reducer or other additives. That was for orange so red would be expected to be a little more. The last time I bought Centari a couple of years ago it was about $75/gal (blue) for the basic paint (no additives). It is probably closer to $100/gal now, somewhat more for red but I would expect Delstar to be competitive with it, since they always used to be. $62/qt seems to be way out of line to me.

The Kondar DZ7 is a red oxide acrylic laquer primer SURFACER. It is a single component product that does not require any isocyanate-containing additive. It would therefore be safe to use with a regular cartridge respirator mask. I haven't used any of it in many years but it is an option to avoid having to deal with the health issues of isos. DuPont has a similar product called 131S "Fill and Sand". PPG in the OMNI line also has a similar product called MP181 "1K Primer Surfacer". If you price out the products, I suspect you will find the OMNI MP181 to be significantly less expensive than the Kondar. I got a gallon of the MP181 a year and a half ago for about $29. None of these three primer-surfacers are used much any more in the auto refinishing business. Most have migrated to the two-part iso-containing urethanes for that function. However they still work OK. While they are called primer-surfacers, they are best used as surfacers and not as bare metal primers. Epoxy is a far better bare metal primer IMO. The lacquer styles are somewhat porous so if they are used as a bare metal primer, they need to be topcoated fairly soon to avoid rusting underneath if they are subjected to any wet condition without an underlying coat of epoxy. As a surfacer though, they all sand very easily.

Since you are talking priming the cast parts, I really think that epoxy would be a much better choice than the Kondar. Cast surfaces are reasonably rough by nature and you are not likely to be trying to fill sandscratches as you would be on sheetmetal. In fact, the epoxy is a non-sanding primer anyway and you could go directly to your choice of topcoat. Since the Kondar is a high build surfacer, you probably would wind up sanding it anyway, depending on how smooth you applied it. Normally with a surfacer, you don't worry much about how smooth it is since it is a foregone conclusion that it will be sanded significantly. Just makes for more work that way. PPG's main line of epoxy is DPLF but it is quite expensive. The similar OMNI product, MP170 is perfectly satisfactory and should come in around $40/gal plus activator at about $14 for two qts. That's $54 for 6 sprayable quarts. The DPLF would be about three times that. Neither the DPLF nor the MP170 contain isos, even though they are two-part products. A standard cartridge respirator would be satisfactory.

I normally recommend staying with a single manufacturer and a single product line for all materials on any single paint project. However, if you use the specific reducer intended for the Kondar (and not one from the OMNI line) with the Kondar you should not have a problem topcoating it with any AE, even the OMNI MAE or DuPont's Centari. Just be sure to use the OTHER specific reducer for your topcoat. In other words, don't mix and match additives. As with any lacquer type surfacer, don't pile it on too thick in one coat. Use several coats with liberal drying times in between. The tendency is always to put it on to heavily since the surface dries rapidly. You will need to spray it wet though if you are not planning on sanding it. It is very easy to apply lacquer in too dry a spray, especially if you are trying to not pile it on. That will leave you with a rather poor surface that almost HAS to be sanded prior to topcoat.

third party image Rod

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Paul (C IL)

11-28-2003 20:53:59




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 Re: Re: Re: PPG primer question in reply to Rod (NH), 11-27-2003 22:42:28  
Rod,

Thanks for the detailed followup. The good news is I have not gotten too taken yet. While I did buy the Kondar primer, I did not buy any of the $62/qt stuff yet. I will indeed shop around some more. And this time I know to be specific about asking for an epoxy primer. I feel like I have learned more about paint than I never wanted to know in the last two weeks, thanks to this board and resources on Dupont's and PPG's web site.

Worst case now is I am out about $35 for a quart of Kondar and qt of thinner. I can live with that mistake.

Frankly the level of frustration is approaching the point where I am almost ready to say "heck with it" and go buy some alkyd enamel 'tractor paint' from the farm store. But I am not quite ready to throw in the towel yet. I am hoping that the advice I am getting here proves that spending more on the acrylic enamel is worthwhile.

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Rod (NH)

11-29-2003 17:09:36




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: PPG primer question in reply to Paul (C IL), 11-28-2003 20:53:59  
Don't be discouraged Paul. I know it is difficult not to be with so many variables, so many different products and so many opinions, many of which conflict. But it will all fall in place at some point and you will wind up enjoying the result. Acrylic enamel has better fade resistance than alkyd (synthetic) enamel. And red is a notorious color for fading. I have read about Farmalls painted with the tractor store paints that went from red to pink in a years time. I think you will do better than that.

Boy, $35/qt for Kondar is highway robbery! That's four times more than it should be. Do you have any other possible source for PPG products in your area? If so check 'em out for a price comparison. Save it anyway. If you get into working the sheetmetal you may use it on top of epoxy to fill any sandscratches for that glass smooth surface so necessary for a nice glossy topcoat. You also could approach your supplier about simply returning the Kondar if you haven't used any. That's a factory packaged product (not store mixed) and any decent store should honor a return for refund.

My suggestions:

1. Take what the paint store tells you with a grain of salt. You are not painting a Mercedes where you can pass the costs on to others. You are staying away from isocyanates for health reasons (excellent decision if you don't have the proper safety equipment). Your needs in materials and the methods you use can, and will, be very different from those of a commercial autobody shop.

2. Obtain the detailed technical data sheets for each product before decisions to purchase or use. After purchase, follow all manufacturer's directions.

3. Be aware of the pitfalls and potential problems of using an automotive enamel without a hardener. Do a search on this site. I have posted my own opinions on those here in the past. Being aware of possible problems beforehand goes a long way to avoid them spoiling your work.

4. Unless you have a high level of confidence in spraying, by all means spray some test panels before hand. I believe it is worth the small cost and effort to actually buy a 3'x3' piece of 20 or 22 ga sheet metal to practice on if you don't have anything like that kicking around. Spray it while it is in the vertical position. Do it as many times as is necessary before tackling the tractor.

Rod

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