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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Paint advice

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mark

11-28-2003 20:27:29




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I would like a recommendation on what to apply to my c that i am getting close to getting sprayed. I have taken the hood, gas tank and grille down to bare metal.I will get the rest of the frame wire brushed down too. I am not capable of painting this myself(want it to look good) so i will hire it done.What paints primer etc for this project are the best? Will different types of primers be used for the cast iron and sheet metal? Also painter is talking about clear coating? Is this the best durable finish for a Tractor that will mainly (hopefully) be more of a parade tractor?Any suggestions wil be appreciated,thanks
Mark

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Roger

11-30-2003 18:22:57




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 Re: Paint advice in reply to mark, 11-28-2003 20:27:29  
I used Imron on a Cockshutt 30 in 1995, the paint still looks like it was painted a month ago. I have spilled gas on it a few times and it has'nt hurt it at all. I get good comments on it every time I take it out. Red Imron is rather expensive, the last I bought was a little over $200 a gallon with the activator. I've got a freind who has a 34 Ford street rod, he used black Imron. It was painted more than 15 years ago and still looks beautiful.

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mark

11-30-2003 19:46:28




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 Re: Re: Paint advice in reply to Roger, 11-30-2003 18:22:57  
About how much paint(finish coat) does it take to do a C?Will that(imron) require a clear coat as well?Can I use 2150 as a paint code to match with newer paints?I would like a paint that will be resistant to gas spills oil leaks or coolant fluid.Is $300 to $400 for all paint materials (using not top end paint but better than 2150 ag. paint)a realistic figure to shoot for? Thanks for all the advice and help,
Mark

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CNKS

12-01-2003 07:04:11




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 Re: Re: Re: Paint advice in reply to mark, 11-30-2003 19:46:28  
A gallon using 3 coats will do a C. A lot of the paint gets wasted doing the small parts, and will depend on how many parts are removed and painted separately, how wide your pattern is, etc. A good painter could do one with 3 quarts, takes me about a gallon.



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Rod (NH)

11-29-2003 17:19:15




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 Re: Paint advice in reply to mark, 11-28-2003 20:27:29  
Hi Mark,

What CNKS said :o). I will add that "best" is a relative term that usually has a cost component. If you really want the very best for a long term show & parade tractor, then tell your painter that and be prepared to pay the piper. It can get real expensive real fast.

third party image Rod

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mark

11-29-2003 20:37:32




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 Re: Re: Paint advice in reply to Rod (NH), 11-29-2003 17:19:15  
I guess after reading the post below about the guy that went to the shop and seemed to be given the wrong paint it made me a little scared. I thought if the local shop asked me ?s about what i might want, i wanted to be able to answer him with more than "just make it look nice" The local shop is more of an automotive shop and I am not sure if they are used to using epoxy primers. But maybe that is what they would put on the cars for all i know. I guess i just wanted to be a little more educated in what i might ask them they are using etc.If they were to epoxy coat everything then use a surfacer on parts that i would want smooth,then a topcoat (with better paint ie;imron?)what would be a reasonable cost for materials? Thanks,
Mark

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Rod (NH)

11-30-2003 13:05:05




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 Re: Re: Re: Paint advice in reply to mark, 11-29-2003 20:37:32  
Mark, I really think you need to establish what you are willing to pay for a tractor paint job. Material costs alone can run from under $100 if a "tractor store" paint is used to $1000 or more if a high-end automotive paint is used. Usually some type of cost-benefit thinking has to be applied unless the sky is the limit. If you ask 10 knowlegeable people what is "best" you will get eight different answers. What will be common though is that they all will be expensive. A legitimate argument can be made that for a couple of parades a year (housed at all other times), a tractor store paint can serve you nicely indeed. If prepared and applied well, it will look as good as a much more expensive paint. Just don't leave it out in the sun for days on end or spill gasoline on it if you want to avoid fading and staining.

I happen to personally believe that a low-end urethane such as PPG OMNI MTK coupled with an epoxy primer like PPG OMNI MP-170 represents a very good compromise between cost and quality. You get a significant increase in performance and durability for a reasonable increase in cost. When material costs exceed $100/gal though, my own break point has been reached. Total material costs over $300 or $400 is just not warranted IMO. After all, my vehicles are not Mercedes and my money supply is limited :o). I do work only for myself and an occasional friend so I can't just pass the costs along. On the epoxy side I moved (down) from PPG DPLF to PPG OMNI MP-170 a couple of years ago because of cost. DPLF is absolutely great stuff. But it is not worth three times the cost of a "nearly as good" MP-170. Others will disagree. On the surfacer side, I have moved (up) from DuPont 131S acrylic lacquer to the low-end PPG OMNI MP-182 urethane to get increased performance at only a modest increase in cost. There again, others will disagree and will prefer a more expensive high-end surfacer. The cost savings in the move down with the epoxy has more than offset the cost increase in moving up to the urethane surfacer for me. BTW, your shop certainly should be using a surfacer on the sheet metal. If not they don't deserve to be called a body shop (unless it is brand new sheetmetal with no sandscratches or other minor imperfections).

It may very well be true that the shop you are thinking of doesn't "do epoxy". They may have standardized around an etch primer instead. PPG has always been big on epoxy. To the contrary, DuPont has always been big on etch. I am not knocking etch primers, I just think epoxy is preferable for my own purpose. But then I am not a production shop where time is money and money is profit. Even the pros can't agree on the epoxy vs. etch argument.

You mentioned IMRON. I have never used it and can't quote a price. I have always considered it out of my range, costwise. It's great on planes and trains so it must be great on tractors, providing you want to pay for it. Plus if you are a stickler for precise "original" color shades, it most likely is not available in tractor color mixes. I suspect that will be the case with most of the high-end products. You may have to settle for something close (or not so close).

In any event, ask around, decide on your goals and cost limits, give your paint shop a general idea of the quality level you want and the price you are willing to pay and leave the details up to those who are actually going to be doing the work. If they are a PPG shop they probably don't "do DuPont". I suspect it would be similar if they used another manufacturer's products. It goes without saying that you should also ask around about the shop itself and the work it has done in the past to avoid being scammed by paying for "A" and getting "B".

Rod

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CNKS

11-29-2003 09:50:49




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 Re: Paint advice in reply to mark, 11-28-2003 20:27:29  
Why don't you ask your painter what he recommends? The paint from the primer up should be from the same manufacturer to assure compatibility. Basically you need an epoxy primer on everything -- as Rod(NH) answers in the post about 3 or 4 down, you don't need anything else on the cast, as it is rough anyway. Use a surfacer on the sheet metal and other parts you want absolutely smooth -- an example would be the battery box on the C, perhaps the light box and the pto shield (not neccessay in my opinion). Whether it's base/clear or single stage topcoat is between you and your painter. Base/clear might look a little better, but a good painter will get good results with single stage, and do it cheaper.

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