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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Dupont Primer/Paint ?'s

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Gary_N_WV

12-18-2003 16:38:17

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I really don�t have but a very small heated area to work on my tractor parts this winter, but I would like to make use of some of my free time to try to get some things done.
I would like to be able to degrease, wire brush, sand blast and etc. some of the things like the starter, generator, seat, wheel weights and so on.
I want to use Dupont Centauri Acrylic Enamel as the final finish next spring/summer.
Since Epoxy primer needs to have the final finish applied soon after the primer, my question is: What should I do to protect the parts that I am working on until I can actually use epoxy primer in the spring? What can I prime them with as I work on them that will allow epoxy to be applied later without a lot of extra work and trouble?
I�ve talked some to the guy at the paint store, but I think most of the information that he is giving me is for a regular body shop that has all the space and time they need.
What do you guys do/use that have limited space and time?

Thanks !

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Butch

12-19-2003 14:03:13

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Re: Dupont Primer/Paint ?'s in reply to Gary_N_WV, 12-18-2003 16:38:17

Gary, That's a problem you'll have even if you wait until summer to start, the time factor for recoating E-primers. My feelings are that the E-prime does as much for paint job by stopping rot from the bottom up as is does by attaching the top coats, maybe more so I want it on the parts right after they are cleaned. When I "restore" a tractor it comes all the way down. It takes a while to clean and rebuild one that way when your working 2-3 hours in the evening and weekends even if you have no other life. I use the E-primer right after the parts are cleaned and before any fixing or reassembly to seal them from moisture and prevent rust. I also reduce it some so that it does not "smooth" that castings as much. Once the E-prime has cured well it is lots easier to wipe off stray oil that gets on parts when assembling too. When I am ready to final paint an assembly, I rub any steel parts with Scotchbright pads along with any areas of the castings that are smooth. I do nothing with rough castings except clean them with prepsol then recoat with the primer just before painting. Sheet metal is a different matter for me. I don't do any sheet metal work until I can clean, E-prime, straighten, fill, e-prime again and paint within a few days. I know that placing more E-prime over fully cured E-prime is a no no but the makers assume your working on body tin too, not rough castings that the paint can get a hold of. If you have never used the E-primers before you will be supprized by how far they go. Unless it is a large complicated tractor I have used a quart to do the whole deal, 2 quarts is max with some left over. The cost and liitle work involved in priming twice seems to be pretty insignificant to me when I consider all the other work and cost involved. Good Luck

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Rod (NH)

12-19-2003 13:52:46

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Re: Dupont Primer/Paint ?'s in reply to Gary_N_WV, 12-18-2003 16:38:17

Hi Gary,

If you are going to the extent of sandblasting pieces, I certainly would recommend epoxy as the best way to proceed. You should apply it as soon after sandblasting as possible, certainly the same day. The time window is not that big a deal and the epoxy will provide an excellent protection over the winter months. In the spring, when you are ready to topcoat, just scuff the epoxy with a coarse Scotchbrite pad and re-shoot a coat of it. You don't absolutely HAVE to do this but it is recommended to provide the best adhesion between layers. Then topcoat within the window.

Rod

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CNKS

12-18-2003 17:45:59

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Re: Dupont Primer/Paint ?'s in reply to Gary_N_WV, 12-18-2003 16:38:17

There is product called Rass O Nil, think the name is Picklex 20 now, same stuff. Auto body store sells it or you can get it from the manfacturer -- do a search. Comes in squirt bottles, then spread it with a brush. It is expensive, but a pint lasts a long time. Cheap if bought by the gallon, but you will have trouble using a whole gallon. It is a phosphoric-zinc combination that will kill flash rust and minor rust, but should be used mainly as a rust preventative. Kept dry it lasts for months. All you need to do before priming is scuff it with a scotchbrite pad. It also etches the surfaces for better primer adhesion. Works well under an epoxy primer. If you do see rust forming after a period of time, scuff it and apply more. Beats the heck out of using a primer and having to reapply and sand. This is not a miracle product, but it does work.

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LarryG

01-08-2004 11:36:08

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Re: Re: Dupont Primer/Paint ?'s in reply to CNKS, 12-18-2003 17:45:59

I have the same problem - no heated workshop for winter blasting/painting. I used Picklex 20 (it was Ras-O'-Nil then) on my tractor nose cone and hood. They sat there in the garage for 2 years before I found the time to finish them. All they needed was a light going over with a Scotchbrite pad. You have to keep rain/dew, etc off them or you'll be starting over, but the stuff does work. I'm using PPG OMNI system and I like the way it works and looks. I'm inspired now to finish the project. Oh, and also, for those who are debating a supplied air system for working with iso's, I bit the bullet and bought the $400 system from www.autobody.com. I don't think I would go it anyother way.

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