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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Please check my work before I go farther jd420 PPG

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scott#2

12-22-2003 17:48:10

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JDClooney has gotten me this far. I am in the process of redoing a 420. So far I have taken all tin to bare metal via paint stripper and scraping. I have wire wheeled and scrubbed each peice in Dupont 5717 metal prep, twice. Next I plan to prime with PPG DP90 LF 2 part epoxy, fill the pits sand and prime again then apply color.

Questions:

Are you supposed to sand this PPG epoxy primer? It says its a non sanding primer. Or do you only sand where you plan to fill pitts and then prime again and sand before finish coats? or no sanding at all?

How well does this stuff shoot through a HVLP gun & what size tip is good. Any tips here?

I like the late model JD green paint. Does anyone have a reccomendation on what type to use? I need a durable paint, easy to work with for a work tractor that wont chip when it gets smacked by a limb or something. This aint no show tractor but I would like the paint to make it through the years without too much fadeing, it will stay outside. Acrylics, enamels, urathanes... which is the easiest, most durable, easilly had that will go over the PPG epoxy primer. And what will I need to add to it, if anything, so it will shoot, set, shine and last...?

All help is appreciated, im a little confused on paint types and additives after reading all the posts.

Scott#2

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Butch

12-23-2003 16:50:39

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Re: Please check my work before I go farther jd420 in reply to scott#2, 12-22-2003 17:48:10

I know what you mean about the getting confused when stepping up to a good paint system from the old Rustolium red primer and implement paint deal so dont feel alone, I read a lot of painting posts here too. My advise is this, You have started out with a combination of manufactures products but the best advise I can give to the layman is to stick with one line. You can't go wrong with PPG. If somebody here does not give you the corrct, (there are a few different greens are there not?) PPG numbers go over to the JD board and get the correct numbers. I use Omni, but only because my dealer no longer can supply Delstar. If your dealer can still supply PPG Delstar get it, it will cost a tad more but you can apply it with a blindfold on and will get a nice job. Don't turn this into rocket science, you are not going to have problems on a tractor as long as the surface is clean and your coatings are compatable. Remember these automotive finish systems are designed for treatment like salt, auomatic washes stones fying at 70 MPH etc. The E-primer should go on first as you have done, then do your repairs over top of the primer. If more than a week goes by between the first coat of primer and being ready for topcoat you should recoat with e-prime just before painting. But first scuff e-primed ares that you did not disturb with repairs, I use Scotchbrite. Don't worry about the castings they are rough enough without scuffing. As for your gun question I had the dealer install a "middle of the road" tip in my middle of the road quality HVLP when I bought it and despite the fact I have read it is not possible, I have shot everything from $15 a gallon QFF crap to $200 Delstar and all the primers and prep coats inbetween with no changes except to maybe alter the reducer percentage slightly. (just another example of letting the scientists get things too complictaed I am afraid) Yes the exact right tip might make a 10% difference in application speed but who gives a rats rear?

Don't get me wrong,I am not trying to promote sloppy practice here but being off a little here and there in your timing off proceedures is not going to cause a paint failure, nor is being off a tenth of a millimeter in your gun tip. BUT the wrong combination of products or a dirty surface will cause a failure everytime. Spend you effort cleaning and prepping and the top coat just goes on (and stays on)like magic when using a top quality paint.

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CNKS

12-24-2003 18:38:31

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Re: Re: Please check my work before I go farther j in reply to Butch, 12-23-2003 16:50:39

You or anyone else can correct me if I'm wrong, but in terms of scuffing epoxy primer before reapplying on cast -- Epoxy on rough cast should behave just like epoxy on a properly prepared smooth surface, it still needs to be scuffed or sanded. You want the new paint to bite into and stick to the old paint, regardless of the surface. The surface should also be roughed up for the first coat. Some people just chemically strip and spray the cast--not saying it won't work, but IMO any surface needs to be sanded or scuffed. Epoxy primers vary on the amount of time you have to recoat or topcoat without sanding and reapplying. On Omni MP 170 it is 72 hrs. Some of the high dollar stuff is a week. Depends on what it says on the P-Sheets.

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Butch

12-26-2003 19:58:57

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Re: Re: Re: Please check my work before I go farth in reply to CNKS, 12-24-2003 18:38:31

CK you are not wrong in that the book says it should be scuffed. My recomendation to not scuff the castings cames from the body man who helped me get into automotive finnishing systems a few years ago and due to the fact I have had no problems with seperations or lifting on castings. His theory was that the dust from scuffing has the potential to cause problems in that it will be impossible to get all of it out of the pores, pits, low places or whatever you want to call the low areas of the castings. I can't say, and won't say your wrong to scuff them, just that my experience is that it is not needed to get good adhesion on the castings and due the the dust problem my paint master was worried about years ago I'm not going to try it "for good measure". Thanks for pointing out the differeces in recoating time. The paint store guy told me a week and I never looked at the sheets for the 170. The old DP40 was 1 week and I "assumed", a bad thing to do.

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CNKS

12-27-2003 14:27:23

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Please check my work before I go f in reply to Butch, 12-26-2003 19:58:57

I blow castings off with compressed air and then use wax and grease remover followed by a tack rag. Because, I use a squirt on/brush on rust preventative applied after stripping that should be scuffed if it sits a while; yes there is a lot of dust. (I don't prime as I go). Too many nooks and crannies even on a stripped tractor not to do that. I don't know if scuffing epoxy is needed or not, I haven't had to repaint cast (yet, darn near did last time), but I don't see the difference between paint on cast and paint on smooth surfaces. One advantage to not being a professional, is that I don't have a customer wanting his vehicle/tractor back, so I can take my time. Professional paint people always have another project waiting on them and have learned what shortcuts they can get by with, most of the time. Everyone has their own way of doing things, not saying yours is wrong.

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