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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

filling in the depressions from the rust ...CNKS

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joe in ohio

02-09-2004 15:18:07




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CNKS you said you use an Evercoat product to fill in the deeper depressions. What is the product name? Thanks, Joe




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Joe in Ohio

02-10-2004 18:36:07




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 Re: filling in the depressions from the rust ...CN in reply to joe in ohio, 02-09-2004 15:18:07  
thanks guys! I was wondering if the producted "feather Fill" was still being made. I think it was made by Evercoat. It was sprayed right out of a reguler spray gun. It could be built up to many many mills thick.



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Rod (NH)

02-10-2004 19:51:20




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 Re: Re: filling in the depressions from the rust . in reply to Joe in Ohio, 02-10-2004 18:36:07  
Yes, Feather Fill (primer-surfacer) is still available from Evercoat but I have never used it. See here and go to "automotive" then "undercolor products - primers". It looks like the sprayable polyester I mentioned in my post below. Otherwise know as "sprayable bondo". PPG has a similar product but I have never used that either. I didn't see any reference to a tech data sheet on Evercoat's web site but I would check a can label for recommended fluid tip and needle size before buying just to be sure your existing gun can properly handle it.

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Butch

02-10-2004 04:30:06




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 Re: filling in the depressions from the rust ...CN in reply to joe in ohio, 02-09-2004 15:18:07  
You can also thin regular body putty with fiberglass resin if you have that around the shop. Another trick I have used is to warm the putty to thin it but you must be real quick to get it down as it will harden real quick. Like Rod I have never had a problem with regular ol spot putty to fill small pits, which are different than "craters". I may have to move into the modern world two part stuff one of these days.

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CNKS

02-09-2004 17:35:15




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 Re: filling in the depressions from the rust ...CN in reply to joe in ohio, 02-09-2004 15:18:07  
I'm glad Rod responded -- I've been answering too many questions lately and wish someone would take part of them. Nothing wrong with spot putty. It is, after all, just thick primer. I use it mostly to fill pinholes in body filler, not much different from what Rod does.



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Rod (NH)

02-09-2004 16:44:39




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 Re: filling in the depressions from the rust ...CN in reply to joe in ohio, 02-09-2004 15:18:07  
Hi Joe,

Well, I'm not CNKS but I will throw out an opinion. If you are talking about rust pits, etc. you probably want some two part polyester "finishing putty". It really is nothing more than a smooth but more fluid bondo. Evercoat makes several versions of this as does 3M. It is good to fill areas that are not deep enough for "bondo type" plastic fillers but are too deep for fixing with a surfacer such as the MP182 CNKS mentioned in a prior post. Rust pits usually fall into this category. I have used the 3M product and it works well but I always seem to wind up with a few minor imperfections remaining, even after 2 or 3 coats of surfacer. I usually take care of that with some regular lacquer type spot putty. Many will not recommend using this "outdated" product but I have had excellent luck with it. The key to it's effective use is to put on very thin (no more than 5mils per coat), give it plenty of time to fully dry (overnight even) and seal it with epoxy primer or a surfacer before the final topcoat.

I recommend this type of work sequence for rust pits:

1. Sandblast. If you can't sandblast, wire brush and apply a rust treatment such as Permatex (Loctite) Extend.
2. Prime with a two part epoxy primer such as PPG OMNI MP-170.
3. Apply the polyester finishing putty where needed.
4. Sand smooth with 80 grit.
5. Re-prime with epoxy.
6. Apply a two part surfacer such as PPG OMNI MP-182 - 2 or 3 coats overall (caution health hazard here because of isocyanates). A one part surfacer can be substituted if you lack the proper safety equipment but the same application issues that go with the lacquer spot putty also go with it.
7. Sand with 220 grit.
8. If ANY noticeable imperfections remain, apply the spot putty where needed.
9. Spot sand with 220 grit.
10. Apply a final coat or 2 of surfacer and sand with 400 grit.
11. Be absolutely sure you have no imperfections showing at this point. The surface should be as smooth as glass to obtain the best gloss in the topcoat. If it is not, repeat any of the above as needed.
12. Topcoat as desired.

It sounds like a lot of work and it is. But you only need to go to that effort on the sheet metal and only if you want the best possible result. Forget it on the cast. There are also variations on such a sequence. Different people go about it in different ways with different but similar materials and get equally good results. There is a sprayable polyester filler on the market nowadays but I have never tried it. In fact I doubt I have the larger gun fluid tips and needles likely needed to use it. I simply have had good success with the above.

third party image Rod

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Dennis Juliot

02-10-2004 21:00:08




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 Re: Re: filling in the depressions from the rust . in reply to Rod (NH), 02-09-2004 16:44:39  
Evercoat Finsh Sand Primer is very good.
I use this with 1.7mm HVLP gun. It's so hard after it sets up that you can't hardly chip it with a hammer. Mix it just like it says on the can. I love this primer. Just check out my web sit. I deal with a lot of rust pitted Cubs



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Rod (NH)

02-11-2004 06:07:13




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 Re: Re: Re: filling in the depressions from the ru in reply to Dennis Juliot, 02-10-2004 21:00:08  
Hi Dennis,

I'd visit your web site but you didn't provide a URL or a link to get to it. I'll have to try that sprayable polyester sometime. It doesn't seem to have isocyanates in the ingredients and that would be a plus, especially for those without fresh air breathing equipment.

third party image Rod

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dennis

02-11-2004 09:57:45




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: filling in the depressions from th in reply to Rod (NH), 02-11-2004 06:07:13  
I like to spray an epoxy on all bare metal first
then apply the finish sand. Your right about the breathing air I always where a good respirator even using a spray can paint. Sorry about the ULR www.juliotscustomcubcadets.com



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