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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Sheet metal working

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Poor Farm Jim

02-23-2004 17:42:51




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I've been working on the hoods and noses of my 720 and 730 John Deeres and have had reasonable success working out the dings and straightening metal. But there are places where I need to shrink stretched metal. I understand you can do it with heat. Does anyone have good advice or can anyone suggest a good book or website on this matter? I'm finding it's a lot easier to shape something on a curved surface than on a flat one. A couple of those flat surfaces on the sides of the nose pieces look like potato chips.

Jim

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jake

02-24-2004 08:12:23




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 Re: Sheet metal working in reply to Poor Farm Jim, 02-23-2004 17:42:51  
You may want to try an english wheel, it will work for some dents or flaws.



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Rusty Jones/ The Mower Ma

02-25-2004 10:55:25




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 Re: Re: Sheet metal working in reply to jake, 02-24-2004 08:12:23  
OOOHH!! Don't they cost a bunch of money? And, they seem to be scarce as hen's teeth in this area! Only place i've seen them is on Monster Garage, and Orange County Choppers, or shows of that ilk! I used to have a body repair tool that worked similar to an english wheel, and ran on shop air pressure. it had a large roundish u-shaped tubular body, which would go in behind a fender or panel, it had an air driven hammer on the outer end and a small dolly on the inner end. it had a handle to control the air flow. Only thing, you had to watch--you could get the repair stretched too much, and then ya had to get a new part, or shrink it! RJ RJ

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jake

02-26-2004 06:28:08




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 Re: Re: Re: Sheet metal working in reply to Rusty Jones/ The Mower Ma, 02-25-2004 10:55:25  
You can purchase kits to build your own english wheel. They are manually operated and very easy to use.It may be best to find someone in your area that has this type of sheet metal tool that can take the flaws out of your sheet metal.



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Rusty Jones

02-23-2004 19:48:35




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 Re: Sheet metal working in reply to Poor Farm Jim, 02-23-2004 17:42:51  
If you can, go to an auto body supplier and buy an "all-purpose dolly", and a decent body hammer, with a round, flat head, not a square head! Clean the surface of the tin with thinner or solvent. You can hammer some of the dings/ dents flat, using the dolly as a back up, behind the surface. To shrink, you need either an acetylene/ oxygen welding outfit, or a hot propane torch! Grind the paint off the surface to bare metal. Heat a small spot in the center of the dent, an inch or two,red hot, use the dolly to bump the metal out, or in, and use the body hammer to flatten it out as best you can, against the dolly! It will take several applications of heating to do it. You'll never get it perfectly smooth, you'll have to grind it and fill it with plastic, and sand it with a sanding board, to get the final smooth finish! Some small dents can be brought up by heating the dent, and slopping a thoroughly wet rag on it, but this doesn't work all of the time! And, why the auto body hammer, you ask? Because the ball pein hammer is rounded, where the body hammer is relatively flat! And, the dolly has several areas to give you better control over your working the metal! Rusty Jones

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TDK

02-23-2004 20:41:04




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 Re: Re: Sheet metal working in reply to Rusty Jones, 02-23-2004 19:48:35  
Rusty's got it right! I just want to add one or two things. If you have trouble shrinking an area, drill a few 1/8 or smaller holes around the area your working on. This will sometimes help,along with heat, shrink a stubborn spot.Also if you have a really bad dent or hole in sheetmetal it can be cut out and another piece welded in with wire welder.This is sometimes the only option when good used parts are hard to find or extremely expensive.I have a hood that I'm going to try to fix this way,,,someone cut the exhaust hole larger,apparently they used a hatchet!!! I see this way to often!

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