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new painter

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paul

02-25-2004 18:49:54




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Ok lets see if I got it right.Plan on using epoxy primer then urethane paint on my smta.First hot pressure wash,then wire brush or scuff all surfaces to be painted.will a scotch brite pad only work or do I need to sand also and if so what grit?This tractor has been painted previously my guess is with enamel IH paint and there is very little or no rust some runs and very little dings.When all done brushing sanding and scotch padding what do you use to wipe down dust and finger prints before epoxy coat.Also need to know how much paint to buy was told that one gallon of urethane with reducer is about 7 quarts if thats true I think that will due also need to know how much primer to buy.Sorry for all the questions but my painting experence has been limited to small enamel jobs that I really hated doing.Honey do jobs.Thanks Paul

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CNKS

02-26-2004 10:01:01




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 Re: new painter in reply to paul, 02-25-2004 18:49:54  
Your SMTA is bigger than the Allis Butch just did -- Depending on how many parts you paint separately you will probably need most or all of the gallon-- possibly more. You will probably pay about the same for a full gallon as you would for say, 3 individual quarts anyway. You will probably need 3 coats of Urethane, PPG says one coat of MP170 epoxy, but with only one coat I don't get coverage, so I use two --- you might get by with 2 quarts of 170, but I won't promise that. You should use MP182 surfacer over the epoxy on the sheet metal to get it smooth, you can sand 182, 170 really is not intended to be sanded and will not cover small imperfections. Probably no more than 2 quarts of 182, you might get by with one--I wouldn't buy a whole gallon of 182. If it was my tractor (it isn't) I would remove all the old paint because you don't know how the surface was previously prepared (rust, etc).

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Butch

02-26-2004 06:53:31




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 Re: new painter in reply to paul, 02-25-2004 18:49:54  
My preference is to remove the old paint but if there is no sign of peeling or flaking it is debatable if it is necessary. The spec sheets for PPG primers show properly prepared old finish as a suitable substrate. Nice shiny paint will really show the waves and other defects in the surfaces so I would not recommend scotchbright as the only prep. A person is better off to level the old coatings as best he can before priming instead of using many think coats of surfacer to do the same thing. Sanding with a stiff backing knocks down the high spots and leaves the lows, Scotchbright will more or less sand the whole surface down equally leaving the surface as wavy as it was to start with. Paint usage has many variables. Quality of paint, how far you tear the tractor down, what kind of gun you have, your gun techniques all come into play. Just to give you an Idea I recently redid a model WD Allis. It was assembled as much as could be and still get paint on everything then parts like the hood, grill and a few misc parts were painted afterwards. Using PPG MTK OMNI, a HVLP gun and my so-so techniques I shot three coats and used just about 1/2 gallon of paint, plus the additives. As for your epoxy primer it is far best to be able to top coat it within the recommended time frame, the sooner the better. Sometimes that is not possible when restoring a tractor it then it must be scuffed with Scotchbright and recoated with primer before top coating. I have found it not necessary to scuff castings for recoating, some prefer to do it. If you do scuff them make very sure you get all the dust. A good cleaner-degreaser- dewaxer is PPG #440

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