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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Nitro-Stan or Body filler

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Ian

05-30-2004 19:18:54

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Hi,
I have a tractor with some real bad pitting in the channel iron frame. I want to paint the tractor without that sticking out like a sore thumb. i was tkinking of just takeing some body filler, of couarse after removing the rust and cleaning the surface i would just spread out a bunch of body filler across the channel iron then sanding off the excess filler. but i was told by another person use a stuff called Nitro-stan. Which would be the best. Is there any specific brands of body filler i should use if i go that way. Is there any primers best for coating over that. what is the best primer for anything.
Thanks alot.
Sorry for any spelling or grammar errors.

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Dozerboss

06-05-2004 22:21:48

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Re: Nitro-Stan or Body filler in reply to Ian, 05-30-2004 19:18:54

I should have mentioned before,
I know of one fail proof way to fix rust pits for good, using the obsolute ways of the past--Lead filler. I don't know how much room you have to work in that frame, but to use lead you need to sand blast or wire brush to absolute clean rust free metal, than heat and tin the metal to accept the lead filler then heat the lead and paddle it into place. If this is an option, you'd need to buy the tools, files, tinning compound, wood paddles and a lead rated dust mask. Considerations are cost, safety--you don't want a torch near fuel lines or tanks and how much labor you want to put in it. Plus the heat will ruin the surrounding paint and it will need to be removed near the repair and feather edged if its still good. I know where you can buy a kit with most materials if this is the way you want to go. I have used it many times on sheet metal where the thiness of the metal requires care that you don't overheat and warp it. An old rusty mustang that i wanted a permant fix for. If i can help let me know.

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Rusty Jones/ The Mower Ma

06-04-2004 16:13:41

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Re: Nitro-Stan or Body filler in reply to Ian, 05-30-2004 19:18:54

NOTE: Nitro-stan is a glazing putty, used to fill slight imperfections in the plastic filler, used on automotive applications, and after the application of a light coat of primer. For your deep rust pits, you'd best sand-blast the pits, use plastic filler, let it harden, then block sand it down smooth. Nitro stan will take forever to get hard enough to sand, and probably take many coats, and much sanding, which can be avoided with the use of plastic filler. If you sand blast the deep pitted areas, then apply the plastic filler, and after sanding it, apply the primer soon, you probably won't have to worry about any rust popping up for a long time! But, it must have the top coat applied soon, too, since primer is porous, and will let moisture thru, which will cause rust to form under it and under the plastic, which is something to be avoided! Rusty Jones

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Dozerboss

06-02-2004 22:19:57

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Re: Nitro-Stan or Body filler in reply to Ian, 05-30-2004 19:18:54

Nitro-stan is a spot putty for filling imperfections/pits in body filler. Its a single part air dry and uses no hardener like filler does. Its been around a long time. The last time i looked at a can it was for laquer primer only, so read the label. It may have been reformulated. Its not made to use as a base filler or use on bare metal though it may work if the pits are not too deep and you prime the metal first. I have not tried the sun dry bondo yet and don't think i will. I haven't done any sheet metal lately. The main problem with most fillers is they are not waterproof and will let moisture get to and rerust metal, unless you use the fillers and putties you can use on top of epoxy primer. Then you will have a waterproof repair.
The JB weld sounds like something worth trying in a high vibration area where bondo type stuff may crack.

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CNKS

05-31-2004 17:35:31

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Re: Nitro-Stan or Body filler in reply to Ian, 05-30-2004 19:18:54

I haven't heard of Nitro-Stan, so I can't comment. I consider body filler to be for shallow pits only, say 1/16 inch or so. For anything deeper I use JB Weld. It wasn't designed for that and is hard to sand, particularly on a large area. There are undoubtably better ways, but that works for me. I do use body filler after the JB Weld, to fill imperfections. You may need to use a putty to fill the pin holes in the body filler, although the rails were probably not glass smooth to begin with, so your repair should sort of blend in, unless you want to do the whole rail. Use epoxy primer over that. One brand is PPG Omni MP 170.

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