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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

PREPARING FOR PAINT

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JOHN

06-02-2004 05:53:01




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WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO FINISH METAL, CAST AND STEEL PRIOR TO PAINTING? I HAVE A SANDBLASTER BUT AM WORRIED ABOUT GETTING GRIT IN THE GEAR HOUSINGS. HOW DO I PREPARE THE ENGINE WITHOUT SANDBLASTING? IF I USE CLEANERS AND GET THE METAL CLEAN TO THE EYE, DO I HAVE TO WIPE IT DOWN WITH SOMETHING ELSE TO FURTHER CLEAN THE METAL BEFORE PRIMING? ANY OTHER TIPS? THANK YOU, JOHN.




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Butch

06-02-2004 13:43:01




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 Re: PREPARING FOR PAINT in reply to JOHN, 06-02-2004 05:53:01  
There are other methods to remove the paint such as strippers and electrolisis (spelling?) I sand blast a good bit but I do not blast things like gear housings and motor blocks as getting rid of all of the sand is more work than I care to do. Sandblasting embeds a good bit of sand into a casting, some of it is stuck good, some not so good but I dont want it falling off into the works of my tractors. Painting the inside of the casting will seal most of it in, sonic cleaning will remove it, I want to do neither. Sandblasting any assembled componants is a definate no-no in my book. The castings that dont get blacsted are prepared by power washing and butyl cleaners (purple clean at most parts stores) then wire brushed with a stiff cup brush on the body grinder then washed again before priming. Sometimes if many coats of paint exist or to get rid of prior runs I sand with 80 grit on the grinder, again with flex backing. Sheetmetal can be ruined by blasting at too high a pressures with coarse sand. It can also be ruined with poor techniques. I prefer to blast sheetmtal with a sweeping motion never stopping to concentrate on tough spots then grind with 60-80 grit on flex backing. I am not sure it is nessisary to remove all the paint from the sheetmetal to do a first rate job, I do it as a matter of pride. PPGs data states that well attached fully cured paint is a proper substrate when properly prepared. Of coarse loose paint must be removed as well as paint that scrapes of easily. If the tractor has been painted recently with a lessor quality paint it needs to come off also. For materials the best advise offered here by myself and several others is to stay with one manufacture top to bottom and go with an economy automotive system instead of implement enamals. I use PPG Omni top to bottom and it is a very satisfactory line. You are probaly looking at $150 or less to go that route.

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Bill V in Md

06-06-2004 08:56:48




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 Re: Re: PREPARING FOR PAINT in reply to Butch, 06-02-2004 13:43:01  
Butch,

Do you use an electric angle grinder or pneumatic for the wire cup brush? I am also looking at this approach for removing paint at "hard to get to" places on the final drives of my Farmall Cub. Also, what type of sander would be a good choice for the tractor sheet metal (to finish areas after blasting) - I am leaning toward DA (dual action). Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated..... ..Bill V.

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Bill V in Md

06-06-2004 08:56:21




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 Re: Re: PREPARING FOR PAINT in reply to Butch, 06-02-2004 13:43:01  
Butch,

Do you use an electric angle grinder or pneumatic for the wire cup brush? I am also looking at this approach for removing paint at "hard to get to" places on the final drives of my Farmall Cub. Also, what type of sander would be a good choice for the tractor sheet metal (to finish areas after blasting) - I am leaning toward DA (dual action). Any thoughts or comments would be appriciated..... ..Bill V.

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